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| | | | Joined: Apr 2011 Posts: 523 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2011 Posts: 523 | I am still putting final touches on the engine installation - '55 235 with single barrel Rochester with a low pressure electric fuel pump added near the fuel tank. Turned on the ignition to run the pump for a moment and then pumped the throttle a few times to put fuel into the carb throat. That was when I noticed that I had some fuel running down the outside of the carb from the ends of the throttle shaft. Assuming the carb is equipped with a throttle pump, is that an issue that clears up after the engine is started and running? I don't really need an engine fire before the truck is even street legal.
Bob
BobS46
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,303 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,303 | Fuel leaking at the ends of the throttle shaft holes usually indicates that fuel is getting past the float needle/seat. Dirt, or float is contacting side of carb.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2011 Posts: 523 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2011 Posts: 523 | Thanks. One more thing to tear into, again.
BobS46
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 265 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 265 | Get yourself about an 18 inch screwdriver. Use the handle to tap on the side of your carburetor. Seems to work best for me, when the engine is not running. Could be anything in there, that is causing it to stick. Since we can't buy Ethanol free gas, here in Arizona. Then, we have the heat. I wonder if the Ethanol has a tendency to crystalize. I had it happen to me a couple of times. I have a Carter YF on my 53 3100. I took the advice of a friend, and dumped some Stabil Marine, in my tank. It is supposed to combat the Ethanol. It is a problem for boaters as well. So far, it hasn't happened again. Just something to consider. Good luck with it.
Rugo
Steve Rugg
53 3100
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2013 Posts: 1,367 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2013 Posts: 1,367 | Yep, I'd try tapping the float bowl area. If that fails, you could pull the top and check the set level on the float and make SURE no trash between the needle and seat. But my money is the electric pump is providing too much pressure. It's pretty easy to slip a fuel pressure gauge inline and make sure pressure is between 2 and 4 psi. This is the best video I've seen on Rochester B's and flooding issues (which is what you have). Good Luck, Ron
Last edited by moparguy; 09/30/2017 11:56 AM.
RonR
1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1964 CJ5
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | Bob,
What is the pressure rating on your low-pressure fuel pump?
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2011 Posts: 523 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2011 Posts: 523 | Tim, Thanks for the reply. FINALLY found the invoice that had the part number - K&N 0402. 4-7 psi, 32 gph. I believe that it was suggested by someone on the forum. Just a point of information, the pump is tied directly to the ignition, relying on the needle valve to halt fuel flow. I just found http://devestechnet.com/Services/FuelSystemUpgrades which shows a device that will power the pump for xx seconds after the ignition is turned on; combined with an oil pressure switch, it might provide a good alternative. Bob
BobS46
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