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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,090 Posts1,056,024 Members48,430 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 28 Member | | Member Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 28 | My 64 projects drip rail is in horrible shape. After removing all the old tub and tile caulk the previous owner stuffed in there I discovered that the rail is rusted out (mainly the very top layer of metal,from the top of the truck itself, that sits in the rail). Has anyone had any luck with this type repair? I am building a driver so it doen't have to look perfect,I just don't want it to leak on me in the future. I have pulled and picked out all the old caulk and I have sandblasted the rail. Could I fill it in by brazing material in there? I am afraid that seam sealer would not work since there is such a void. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks, Scott | | | | | Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 199 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 199 | Merry Christmas Scott, hey on those drip rails if the rust through is just in the valley and not up on the top,I would smooth them with a good plastic filler.
By smooth them I mean fill the valley level with the top of the rail.
I have done a couple that way and they look good and hold forever with no more rust problem.Apply thin layers of no more than 1/8" at a time, don't just gob it in to fill the valley or it won't hold.Get all the old caulk,rust,paint and primer off right down to the bare metal and use some body cloth or fiberglass cloth in those larger holes.
I personally think the rails look better smoothed than they do the way they came from the factory and hey,if you don't like it then it will be easy to take it out and start fresh with another fix.
Materials for this will cost about $10. so it won't cut to deep in your Christmas budget!!!!
Have a good week and come see us sometime.
Hobert
"The Lord is my shepherd"
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 486 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 486 | I just dealt with the same problem on my '64. I had cracks about 1/16" wide along the edge of the upper layer of metal. It's hard to weld these up because the metal that's left is very thin. I ended up cutting out the crack to about 1/8" wide and putting in a piece of wire from a coat hanger to fill it in, then mig welding over that. I was able to grind it down to look decent. Then I smoothed up with Bondo, including the bottom of the valley. Doesn't look perfect but good enough for a driver.
'64 swb stepside (gone) '57 1 ton '53 phone truck '59 swb '46 1 1/2 ton '68 swb gmc
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