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#123620 12/18/2006 2:33 AM
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 28
O
Member
Member
O Offline
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 28
My 64 projects drip rail is in horrible shape. After removing all the old tub and tile caulk the previous owner stuffed in there I discovered that the rail is rusted out (mainly the very top layer of metal,from the top of the truck itself, that sits in the rail). Has anyone had any luck with this type repair? I am building a driver so it doen't have to look perfect,I just don't want it to leak on me in the future. I have pulled and picked out all the old caulk and I have sandblasted the rail. Could I fill it in by brazing material in there? I am afraid that seam sealer would not work since there is such a void. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks, Scott

#123621 12/19/2006 3:17 AM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 199
A
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
A Offline
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 199
Merry Christmas Scott, hey on those drip rails if the rust through is just in the valley and not up on the top,I would smooth them with a good plastic filler.

By smooth them I mean fill the valley level with the top of the rail.

I have done a couple that way and they look good and hold forever with no more rust problem.Apply thin layers of no more than 1/8" at a time, don't just gob it in to fill the valley or it won't hold.Get all the old caulk,rust,paint and primer off right down to the bare metal and use some body cloth or fiberglass cloth in those larger holes.

I personally think the rails look better smoothed than they do the way they came from the factory and hey,if you don't like it then it will be easy to take it out and start fresh with another fix.

Materials for this will cost about $10. so it won't cut to deep in your Christmas budget!!!!

Have a good week and come see us sometime.

Hobert


"The Lord is my shepherd"
#123622 12/22/2006 7:30 PM
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 486
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 486
I just dealt with the same problem on my '64. I had cracks about 1/16" wide along the edge of the upper layer of metal. It's hard to weld these up because the metal that's left is very thin. I ended up cutting out the crack to about 1/8" wide and putting in a piece of wire from a coat hanger to fill it in, then mig welding over that. I was able to grind it down to look decent. Then I smoothed up with Bondo, including the bottom of the valley. Doesn't look perfect but good enough for a driver.


'64 swb stepside (gone)
'57 1 ton
'53 phone truck
'59 swb
'46 1 1/2 ton
'68 swb gmc

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