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| | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 99 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 99 | So, I got my new front wheel cylinder and front rubber brake hose from Jim Carter and the connection in the wheel cylinder AND the rubber brake hose are both females so they will never seat. Quite certain I purchased the correct parts for my 1951 3600. Have others had this problem? Should I find an adaptor? | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | The wheel cylinder has a female. The hose has a male and female. The male end of hose goes into the wheel cylinder. The female end of hose is attached to frame and receives the male flare nut on the brake line/tubing.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 |
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 99 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 99 | Yes Bartamos,
I understand how the two ends go, there is only one way, but the interior shape of the wheel cylinder female and the male are the same shape so that they don't properly "seat" and it leaks. All parts are new but maybe my bleeder screw is leaking, I checked and it's tight but maybe it's leaking there. Thanks for the help though. I still hate brakes! Lol | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | I do have that same problem when I do brakes or put a new part on. I just loosen it and retighten. They will seat and they need to be tight when you are SURE what is leaking. Hard to tell you how tight, but pretty tight. I just tighten them and test by pumping brakes. If they leak, I tighten a hair more and retest. Doing this slowly over several days does help sometimes. Time and day and night temperatures will "heal" it.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | I tighten, untighten, and repeat at least two/three times.
My guess is that helps in making a good seat/seal? | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,307 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,307 | As you do the tighten-loosen-tighten-loosen-tighten procedure, leave the wrench on the fitting and pay attention to where the wrench stops at the end of each successive tightening. The wrench should progress a little further each time in a clockwise manner.
This will help give you a "feel" of how much pressure you are applying. Once the tightening movement does not go past the previous one, you are done.
This is a must-do with stainless steel lines.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,003 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,003 | Does the connection require a copper washer?
~ Victor 1941 3/4-Ton Pickup (in process). Read about it in the DITY Gallery1955 Grumman Kurbside "Doughboy" 235/3 on tree w/ OD 1957 3100 - moved on 1959 C4500 Short Bus "Magic Bus" - moved on 1959 G3800 1 Ton Dually "Chief" - moved on 1958 C4400 Viking "Thor" ~ moved on to fellow Bolter | | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 99 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 99 | VEW,
no, it does not require a copper washer. Thanks for all of the suggestions. I will try again and work with the tightening and loosening. Wish me luck. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | The tightening/loosening and other ideas are ONLY if it leaks.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
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