The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1929 Chevy 6 cylinder engine

I am looking at a 1929 Chevy truck with a rusted up 6 cylinder engine. It looks like it needs a new distributor too. I am looking for options on engine swaps vs. rebuilding. I need you guy's suggestions and help please.
thanks,

The 1929 engine was a 194 cubic inch model, the first 6-cylinder Chevy produced. It was used through about 1933, along with a 181 cubic inch model and a 207 through 1935. The 216 engine was introduced in 1936, and the same basic block design continued through 1953 with several modifications and different displacements. In 1954, a redesigned engine was introduced with a different oiling system and 235 cubic inches. It was used through 1962. The 194-207 engines were slightly longer than the 216-235 series, and most parts do not interchange with the 1936-forward engines. Parts are scarce, but still available at times. I have a set of reconditioned 207 connecting rods stashed away somewhere, waiting for someone to need them.
Jerry

So a "reasonable" engine swap would need to be 1929 to 1935 (194,181 or 207)? or just rebuild the existing engine?
And, an early 216 from 1936 to 1953 would require a lot of modifications to make it work in a 1929?
Are the flywheels and bell housings different before or after 1935?
Thanks for your help!

If you want to do a lot of highway cruising, you will need an updated engine. If not, they make a mighty nice restoration. There are members on here that have updated to a 216 or 235 and been happy with the result. It is not a drop in solution but with some work, a good solution. I would suggest reading through the Tech Tips on this.

Bell housings and transmissions interchange 29-30 only, back of the block is different in 31, transmission housings are different in 31, newer transmissions will interchange with 31 bellhousing .Not 100% sure but I think late 4 cylinder [27-28] transmissions will interchange with 29-30 bellhousings but the 4cylinder bell housing will not fit the 6 cylinder engines

I put a 235 in a 29 a few years back.
If you go that way P.M. me and we can talk.

Hello,
Saw your post on putting a 235 engine in a 29 chevy. I have a 29 truck with a serious low end knock. Looks like the way to go is just replace it with a 235. I have zero knowledge of what's required and would really appreciate any help you can offer. Please call me at 724 332 5343 I'd be most grateful.
Marty in Butler, PA

"So a "reasonable" engine swap would need to be 1929 to 1935 (194,181 or 207)? or just rebuild the existing engine?
And, an early 216 from 1936 to 1953 would require a lot of modifications to make it work in a 1929?
Are the flywheels and bell housings different before or after 1935?
Thanks for your help!"

Lee,

The 207 engine was actually used through end of the 1936 model year. My '36 pickup has one and every other original '36 that I've seen in the 52 years I've owned my '36 has one also. The '32-'36 synchromesh style transmission cases are the same although the '32 has unique gear ratios and the '32-'33 units have an auxiliary casting on the back housing a "freewheeling" device. So the '32-'36 bellhousings have the same transmission bolt patterns.

If you need the length of the '36 engine let me know and I'll measure mine.

Engine swapping always leaves the option for an original restoration later. When I first got my '36 PU in 1965 I made a sbc powered rat rod out of it and it was my daily driver like that for 5 years and about 50K miles. Then I restored it and there is no sign of it's prior rat rod status.

When I put a 235 in a 1929 I used:
1938-46 truck bellhousing.
1936-46 big truck clutch/brake pedal pivot mount.
1937-39 truck 3 speed.
1949-54 passenger car solenoid starter.

Yes what Pre 68 Dave said. I've seen nice a restored 1930 Chev roadster with the '38 trans to a 216. Also this swap was written up several years ago by a fellow Ian Reid I believe on the swap. Will check my files and see if it's still in there.

Pre 68 Dave,
out of interest, what did you do about the driveshaft?

By using a 1937-39 transmission the front yoke matched the 29 rear yoke.

For those considering putting a 235 in a 1939 or earlier, be aware that the crossmember or oil pan will need to be modified for clearance.
I always modify the crossmember, but I have seen where the oil pan was notched.
This is due to the change in oil pan design that came with the addition of a rear crank seal in 1940.