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| | | Forums66 Topics128,134 Posts1,056,406 Members48,441 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2017 Posts: 299 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2017 Posts: 299 | Sorry if I have this thread in the wrong place, but wasn't sure where to put it. I'm trying to take the cab off the frame. And the last thing to go is the steering wheel and shaft so I can take the cab off the frame. HELP!!! Not as easy as it looks!!! I thought I just needed to take the two bolts holding the shaft to the console and the four bolts on the gear box and bodda bing bodda boom done. NOPE! Not so quick. Any help hear would be great. And again, Thanks in advance. Steve Elliott | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Make, year, and model truck? | | | | | Joined: Mar 2017 Posts: 299 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2017 Posts: 299 | 1953 Chevrolet, 3600 3/4 ton
Last edited by Elmo; 09/05/2017 8:44 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Do you know how to pull the steering wheel off the steering column?
With the steering wheel off, and the steering column clamp-to-the-dash removed, you can either lift the cab over the steering column, or remove/lower the steering column under the truck frame (you might have to lift the frame a little). Many people forget to remove the steering column assembly attachment bolt that is directly under the bottom, under the frame.
Someone who has done this recently will confirm/clarify/correct. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2017 Posts: 299 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2017 Posts: 299 | No, I haven't taken the steering wheel off the steering column yet, Not sure on how to do that either. Probably going to go on Youtube. But thanks for the info!!
Last edited by Elmo; 09/06/2017 12:54 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | Check out pulling the Pitman arm while your researching.
Give me ambiguity or give me something else
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 Crusing in the Passing Lane | | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 | One can loosen the steering wheel nut part way only, sit in the seat, grab the wheel with both hands in opposite locations, and pull, moving the force around, that usually works, make sure the nut is still on partway. Some have threaded holes under the horn button, not all however.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 2,168 A teacher, but always an apprentice. | | A teacher, but always an apprentice. Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 2,168 | Steve, I have been removing and installing my box so frequently these last few months with mock up that I thought I'd offer my input too. It sounds like you are very close to being there. You said you removed the 4 bolts (3/8" I think- 9/16" hex head....maybe it's 5/16" bolt with 1/2" hex head...but they're definitely one of these two sizes where shaft meets box). Be CAREFUL here, you may be removing bolts for things before you are ready for that step. LEAVE THE SHAFT ATTACHED TO THE BOX (for now), it does not have to be removed from the box to remove the whole assembly. When you are ready, or need to, you can remove the shaft and rebuild the whole unit. There are 4 bolts for the shaft, but leave them alone.
You want to be removing the other four bolts on the box. They are 1/ 2" bolts (3/4" hex head) on the frame rails.
So... (Assuming just the cab is on the frame with no front left sheet metal)
1. Disconnect battery and remove steering wheel. I love to take pictures because it's easy to forget how to put things together!
2. Disconnect the horn wire (label it) up under the dash and the steel donut that is screwed to the inside of the toeboard. If it's a 3speed on the column, disconnect linkages and remove. Take pictures and label all of of this!
3. Remove the drag link from the pitman arm and steering. Label the ends with a paint pen to know which end goes where. You can leave the Pitman arm attached for now. For a rebuild though it will need to be removed. (If you decide to rebuild box you will need to remove the Pitman and will need it securely lock down somewhere. Bolt the box back on the fame to set up your puller. She might fight you tooth and nail.)
4. Remove dash brace and bolts (two 5/16" bolts- with a 1/"2 hex head I believe) from under the speedometer and oil/temp/gas gauge.
5. Remove 4 bolts from the box assembly that bolt it to the frame. There are 2 on the side frame rail, one at the back(that is vertical) and the "hidden" one Tim mentioned on the front end of the box up underneath the frame rail on the inside (it's the shortest bolt of these four).
6. Slide whole steering assembly out of the truck forwards. Box, Pitman arm and shaft. Have a friend help you. It's not necessary if you don't care about paint nicks, but when it is freshly painted you WILL want assistance.
7. If it won't budge before doing all this, loosely install the box side bolts ( DON'T FORGET this or your box and shaft may cause collateral damage!) Give the box a couple good whacks with a Rubber mallet or lightly wiggle the end of the shaft back and forth where the steering wheel attaches. Remove as above.
8. Nothing to it once you practiced up a bit. 😃
I MUCH prefer removing the box this way. I've tried both, and the cab has to go so much higher on the lift to clear the shaft when moving the cab. Plus it's awkward, heavy and you have to worry about so many more things in the way and to disconnect. (That is if you haven't got to them yet...ebrake, fuel line, wiring, cables, pedals, etc)
The box and shaft are awkward and heavy, but they require much less prep to remove. Remove the shaft and box as one, not the cab.
Good luck Steve.
Last edited by Fox; 09/06/2017 4:40 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 916 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 916 | Also, your FLAPS has the steering wheel puller and pitman arm puller available as a free loaner tool- no need to buy these tools! O'Reilly's & NAPA have them. Pulling on an old wheel can bend it, if it's got lots of cracks...
~ Dave 1950 Chevrolet 3600 3/4-ton with 261 engine & T5 Transmission | | | | | Joined: Mar 2017 Posts: 299 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2017 Posts: 299 | Hello Fellas, I did it!! I figured out how to get t he steering wheel off the column. What I did was, I removed the horn button down to the nut that holds on the steering wheel. Then I put penetrating oil on the threads. Then just used a large rubber mallet and tapped up on the steering wheel on one side then the other, and it popped off. On the steering gear box, I just removed all the bolts that hold it onto the frame and then used a gear puller and removed the pitman arm. Worked pretty slick. Thanks guy's for the support!!
Steve
Last edited by Elmo; 09/11/2017 12:20 PM.
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