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#1232223 08/27/2017 10:49 AM
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 22
D
New Guy
New Guy
D Offline
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 22
Hi, I've just pick up a couple of 40s chev trucks. Iam thinking about putting a complete drive line from either a 3500
Silverado or Dodge Ram into them. Has any one done this and how did it turn out?

Thanks heaps

Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
E
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
E Offline
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
Duramax might be too wide for '40's trucks, most of which were inline 6's. 5.9 Cummins might be too long except for COE models. 4bt might be best choice.

Modern driveline, front axle in particular might be too wide, GMC have rare wide front fenders, Stude have spacer strip that can be easily widened.

Troll through build's on here to get ideas.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,366
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,366
Well, up front I'm a Cummins fan. Bought a new 1995 Dodge Cummins (still drive with 250k miles) and had 3 at one time. Rebuilt a few, and turned up many (with full gauge packages only, aluminum pistons do melt). All that said, I really appreciate the simplicity of the mechanical injection pump 4bt and 6bt engines. My first choice would be a 4bt with the inline injection pump. They're not hard to find since they were the engine of choice for the utility trucks used by bakery's, delivery company's and who knows how many others.

Electronics, don't need no stinking electronics with a mechanical fuel pump Cummins. Now they do require electrons for the starter, and fuel shut-off solenoid....but it's easy to replace the electric solenoid with a cable, ala tractor fuel shut-off. Pull to kill the engine, push in to start. That's what's on my 95 both for simplicity and it's a pretty good theft deterrent.

MGP, it's not uncommon for 4bt conversions to get near 30mpg. 6bt also do very well.

All the above said, the biggest advantage to the Cummins is the stone like simplicity, less to go wrong and they'll run till just before the sun burns out.

Buy a clapped out 1991 1/2 (Dodge added an inter-cooler for the turbo at mid year in 91) to 1997 Dodge Cummins, harvest the running gear and get to work.

Oh, and the easier path would be to strip the body off the Dodge, then graft the Chevrolet body to the late model frame/running gear. Benefits include modern brakes and suspension. Easier and safer.

Good Luck,
RonR



RonR


1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1964 CJ5
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,904
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,904
Saw a 5.9 Cummins in an AD (not COE) in Shelton, WA at one time. I didn't have a camera with me. Putting something in the classifieds of the Shelton Journal might stir up a contact.


1948 3/4-Ton 5-Window Flatbed Chevrolet

34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 436
6
'Bolter
'Bolter
6 Offline
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 436
Not sure about the fit and finish of swapping in a Cummins, but I have an '06 Dodge 2500 4x4 with the 5.9 Cummins and I love it. Good drive train.

Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,366
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,366
Fit and finish are totally based on the fab skills of the converter. Lots of welding, fitting, along with a well stocked shop and high level skills required to make this conversion happen.


RonR


1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1964 CJ5

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