The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Black bolt on's, good results

So I’ve wire brushed (wire wheel) and painted a bunch of the, bolt on parts for the engine, air cleaner, oil breather, horn, regulator cover, with gloss black Rustolium. Dried them over night 24 little hours and stuck them in the wife’s oven at 150degF for a couple of hours. The glossy black has turned the nicest semi-glossy black and it looks like the original finish. Any paint experts out there have any comments on this procedure, pros/cons etc.?
By the way, what is the black finish that they apply to the chassis/engine parts, E-paint or something like that???
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

You must have a heck of a wife to get away with that.

I'm not an expert but i did alternator bracket and misc parts in the engine compartment and cab of my El Camino with spray cans and baking in 1992 and they still look real good. I didn't get quite enough paint on some of the edges and a little wear is apparent on those edges.

The secret is to do it when she is at work, and then cover up the smell with a nice cheesy home made pizza pie, she'll never know!
Just thought I’d throw in a picture of the B/A if one of the pieces that I baked, before the pizza that is.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2136558830098611668rwjgca

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Denny, I have not tried the Rustoleum line yet, but have heard great things about it. I DO use "Chassis Black" for alot of the black stuff under the hood. I get it at Napa auto. I think I will try the Rustoleum and see what happens...
Dano

I did the chassis on our travel trailer with Rustolium and it has proved to be a very durable finish. I couldn't get the trailer chassis in the oven though! The last part that I heated in the oven was the crankshaft timing gear and I got lots of feedback from that! The shocking part was a lot of the "feedback" came from my Son, who is a potential gearhead too.

It looks great, Denny?

I'm just wondering ... since engines run closer to 250 degress than 150, why didn't you bake 'em at 250?

Denny, is there a secert to get to your pic's.
All I get is a blank WEBSHOT .
Thanks, George Hood

Alan, I've used 150°, 200° and I’m sneaking up on 250°. I don't know how much the Rustolium will take before it is damaged, after all its not really a baking enamel. The heat does soften the gloss and in person it really does look like the original black that was on the bolt on items. I just wish I could get the inner skirts and hood latch panel in the oven.
Nope George, Webshots seems to work OK when I, or the others click the link, might take a while to download the picture if you’re on a dialup, maybe ya got ta have a little more patients.
By the way, anyone know the ASCII code for degrees?? Never mind! ALT 248 = °
Denny Graham

Hey, Denny

I was wondering about the heat factor ... does Rustoleum make a paint that is okay for hot stuff like engine parts?

The ASCII Code for degrees is & # 1 8 6 ; (without the spaces it comes out like this: º ).

I'm not aware of any heat paint in the Rustolium line although Rustolium has been expanding their line recently. Since I’m trying to stay original, I’m just staying with the engine paints that the vendor’s claim are authentic matches for the original color. I just ordered Gray (’50, 216) from Chevy’s of the 40’s for mine, based on what a few here said, and the vendor says is “correct”. The only place I would expect to see temperatures high enough to burn paint would be around the exhaust ports. I don’t think I would hesitate to use Rustolium on the block or engine tin if they had a “correct” color match.

What’s wrong with “ALT 248 = °”, I don’t get the º thing, you workin’ with one of those oddball Apples or Lenex or sompin’ like that???
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

LOL.

I *am* on a MAC. But the code I gave you is HTML code that will work properly anywhere.

Using "ALT + whatever" can and often will produce bizarre characters instead of what one intended.

all ya gotta do to make the degree symbol is type the number,&,deg [no commas], which is the correct html, ASCII numbers not required
as in 250&deg

Bill

Test:
9,999,999&deg

rustoleum makes a black BBQ paint that might work well for an engine since its meant for higher temps. also the "hammered" paint they make is real durable and requires no primer. i used that on the back half of my frame i just painted.

I have to ask: where did you come up with the bake it process? I sand blasted the air cleaner, primed it and painted it gloss black restoleum but I do not want to screw this up. can you explain the baking process and why?

Just ensures thorough drying (inside and out).

Be careful sneaking up to 250. Them cans do say "Highly flammable"! If one of you blows up your wifes oven you're gonna have an estrogen pistol on your hands.

Lower is fine in my opinion after all, you aren't creating any secret chemestry interactions here, just drying out the paint.

I really would advise against using an oven that you want to use for food for curing paint. Ovens do tend to absorb the volatiles into the insulation material and then re-release them later. Also, paints tend to have heavier poisonous compounds in them that aren't good to eat. Please don't poison your family.

Rustolium gives the drying times on the can at 72°F as 2-4 hr to touch, 5-9 hr to handle and 24 hr for full cure, longer times at colder temperatures. I’m painting in the garage without heat and just out of curiosity one morning after spraying some parts over night I was wondering if I could speed up the full curing time by heating it a little. I waited over night to make sure the solvents were all evaporated out then snuck up on the temperature a little at a time. It will take 200° with out blistering and it does speed up the drying time. If you lay on many coats and the film is thick or you try baking to soon you will wrinkle it, or more accurately alligator it. Also be aware that its going to kill the gloss and leave you with, what I find, a real nice semi gloss finish that looks just like the finish that was on the black parts from the factory.
And yes, if you try putting painted parts in a gas oven before the solvents have evaporated out, you deserve the idiot award along with the guy that checks to see if he has gas in his tank with a match.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Thank you for explaining the process.

I thought some bolt on parts like horn and air cleaner were gloss black, I thought I read that someplace, but cannot locate it now. Do you have a source for your thinking that semi-gloss is correct? 50 years would probably make them semi-gloss, but how about originally?

That I don't know Brian, but I do know that it looks right.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL