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2012 RED Silverado (only 13575 mi.) that has some pine rosin spots on the hood and top of fenders.

Before I get happy with mineral spirits such as paint thinner, turpentine, alcohol, or even gasoline, I thought I'd check in here in case some of you have had experience along this line.
Some of the spots are harder (dryer) and some have a little "softness" to them.

Lets hear it from the "detail men"?..... I don't want to hurt the clear coat.

I do think if it sat in the hot sun for most of the day it will "loosen" it up some...............

Last edited by Achipmunk; 08/22/2017 3:28 AM.

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'Bolter
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Hey Alvin,

I am not a detailer, but I have had the same situation and remedied it with satisfaction. I used some kerosene on a rag and gently dabbed it on the pitch places. Let the solvent work for a few minutes and then gently wipe it of with a clean rag moistened with kerosene. The pitch should come of relatively easily. Kerosene wont damage the paint or clear coat. To be safe, avoid doing this in the hot sun or on a real hot surface. You will need to reapply wax to the treated areas.

Paul


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Turpentine is made from pine byproducts- - - -it stands to reason that it would be the most effective at softening/removing the sap spots. Just don't let it sit on the clear coat long enough to react with it. Start with a spot that isn't very noticeable in case of an OOPS!, if possible.
Jerry


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I have an 80 pound lump of pine pitch found on the beach on the Atlantic ocean. It is presumed to have been on a wooden ship at one time for maintaining seaworthiness of these leaky vessels. It has a distinct turpentine smell to it. If the turpentine does not harm the clear coat, it would almost certainly dissolve the pine pitch so that it can be wiped off. BTW, I also have a Y-shaped bow support from a wooden ship. It was carved from a forked tree, as all of them were, to prevent them from splitting.
(Sorry Alvin. I really didn't have any advice different than anyone else had to offer. I was just feeling exuberantly nautical this evening. smile )
Carl

Last edited by 52Carl; 08/12/2017 3:55 AM.

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Originally Posted by 52Carl
I have an 80 pound lump of pine pitch found on the beach on the Atlantic ocean. It is presumed to have been on a wooden ship at one time for maintaining seaworthiness of these leaky vessels. It has a distinct turpentine smell to it. If the turpentine does not harm the clear coat, it would almost certainly dissolve the pine pitch so that it can be wiped off. BTW, I also have a Y-shaped bow support from a wooden ship. It was carved from a forked tree, as all of them were, to prevent them from splitting.
(Sorry Alvin. I really didn't have any advice different than anyone else had to offer. I was just feeling exuberantly nautical this evening. smile )
Carl

Sounds like you have some pieces of sailing history:
http://www.learnnc.org/lp/editions/nchist-colonial/4069


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Thank You for the replies. I have all of the above ....well, except for the ship pine pitch!
I'll let you know how it goes. I think I can start with a couple spots on the bumper.

If the weather co-operates a little I will try get it done this afternoon.... right after I finish Victoria's grocery run. I like to eat!


1937 Chevy Pickup
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I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
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Glass cleaner/Windex (with ammonia). Edit- make sure that this is not a huge no-no first. It's just what I use & I've never had any problems with clear coat damage.
Brad


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Had a little time this afternoon and tried the windex. No go. Then I decided to try paint thinner on the chrome bumper. It "sort of" worked but you have to scratch with finger nail (no razor blades!) and then let it soak for a few minutes and it'll come off with elbow grease. Did try the paint thinner in a less noticeable painted place and it was the same way. Soak/scratch/soak/rub
Tomorrow, If I get time I'm going to try kerosene and gasoline!

Understand this truck has sat since my father in law came to our house which was back mid April....However, there was pine rosin on it long before that. The "fresh stuff will break loose OK but the old stuff is dry and hard as a steel ball........ but I will get it.....I will get it..... I will get it....someday.

(Rarely driven it has sat down on the coast 30 mile from Myrtle Beach since new, 2012, parked under some crazy type of "carport" with 2 x 6's across the over head but no actual cover from the long needle pine trees which the "association" said they can't cut down".) Yeah right!

Last edited by Achipmunk; 08/16/2017 12:48 AM. Reason: add more info

1937 Chevy Pickup
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I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
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In addition to turpentine, Lestoil cleaner will loosen it up if you let it soak a little. Also Prepsol. Usual precautions, try it

Last edited by Jim Sears; 08/16/2017 4:20 AM.
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Tried the kerosene today an it will loosen it up but it is slow and you have to keep it wet. I got 4 maybe 5 spots in an hour but hey, its progress.

Jim, thanks for you tip. I haven't seen any Lestoil or Prepsol around my parts will check for it.
I will try a little gasoline on a couple spots tomorrow.

......** my opinion is that its hard to come off because although it is so perfect in many ways the truck hasn't been waxed probably since new. It still looks great but today, after the kerosene, I washed the front off and the water doesn't bead up in the list bit. If the truck had been waxed lately I think it would have come off much easier and quicker. Still, I'm making progress.


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
More photos
1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,059
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Renaissance Man
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When they processed pine pitch for use on wooden ships, the process removed turpentine from it. I would try some turpentine.


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Bodymans clay and a bottle of mequires final inspection should pull it off with no problem.

Tim


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Here is what worked for me. I tried paint thinner, the turpentine....windex/ammonia.. No go.

Saturday I worked on the spots with Kerosene. If I could scratch off the "top" of each pine rosin spot the kerosene seems to work good but would not get the last little "circle" of the base of the spot off. Late that afternoon I soaked the hood down pretty good with Kerosene and then wiped it "sort" of dry with a clean towel and just let it sit......

Then Sunday morning as I headed out to church I walked by the truck and saw "white-ish" rings on the hood. Thinking what the heck I took my bare hand and wipe at the spot....and to my surprise they slide right off. Whoa, I wipe at a couple more with the towel and they came off real slick.

Job done.....well, still have a couple spots to SOAK. The kerosene just needed time to soak all the way into the rosin and do its job. I suspect the turpentine may do as well if it was left to soak?? I was one more happy guy. The kerosene doesn't appear to have hurt the paint/clear coat. I washed it off and plan to wax it later this week when I get a chance....or pay someone to do it as Victoria went back into the hospital today for more Chemo and one of the treatments is going into her spine tomorrow.

I'll call this the end of the "pine rosin" story a big Thank You to all of you for your suggestions.


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
More photos
1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,059
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Renaissance Man
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Good for you Alvin. I'll bet you were as mad as George Brett on Pine Tar Day back in the day.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission

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