The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop EZ Wiring fuse block

How do I take the back off of the fuse block. Need to find out why over half of the fuses don't work. I know it is just plastic and I could just break it- but I would rather not.

Thanks

I would think you need to contact the people who made your wiring harness for the correct procedure. The fuse blocks I've seen (aftermarket) use two feed wires. One hot all the time and the other feed through a switch.

Some fuse blocks have unpowered fuses for inline connections. These would have connectors on both ends of the fuse.

There should not be a need to take it apart. Also, you will void warranty. Just do a continuity test on each wire and learn how it's wired. As Beltfed said, In one section of the block, one side of the fuses are on a always hot, hot bar, and the other side of each fuse goes to components. On another section the hot bar (ganged side) is switched to be hot and the other sides of each fuse goes to component switches. (usual way, but again you need to buzz it out to see how it's wired). Chances are you are not realizing how to wire it. Look at instruction again. Forget how you think it's wired and read more carefully.

The always-hot circuits are usually headlight switch, brake lights, horn..... things that a person wants to be operative without key on.
The switched-to-be-hot circuits are all the other components like heater switch, radio, wiper switch, coil, etc.
Switched-to-be-on means the ignition switch "ON". The ignition switch turns on a bank of fuses ONLY when the ignition switch is "ON"

It would be more helpful if you would state which fuses "don't work".

I read the EZ Wire instruction/diagrams just now on line. The worst diagrams I have ever seen. Many shapes are not identified. There is no cohesive schematic. Piece meal, hard to read, childish presentation. Childish drawings. click

I know, eventually you can figure it out, but being concise, clear, flowing and easy to read is what is called for on a DIY product. Not instructions and drawings that make sense to the moron who is writing/drawing them. The art of conveying information takes a certain expertise, as you can see by my posts.

Scroll thru This very slowly to see how a professional does a DIY kit. See any difference? Notice on the third sheet, the always hot bank and the switched hot bank in the fuse panel.

I will attempt to contact the company. The electric fuel pump had no power ;regardless where the switch was, it was dead. That's when I found out half of the circuits were not working. I will see if I can figure out which are not working although the cover can go on two ways Got the pump to work with a jumper wire. Think I will install an oil pressure switch for the electric fuel pump, as a safety factor.

You would not have that trouble with a mechanical fuel pump.

On my 12 circuit mini the fuse block has three pieces.
1) The cover
2) the fuse block
3) the mounting block.

To remove the mounting block from the fuse block there is a catch on each corner that has to be opened up (or relieved) to let go of the block. I use a flat bladed mini eyeglass screw driver.

Tim

Thanks for the replies . Hopefully I can get back to it soon. Had Honey dos to do

Danny did you figure it out? Seeing bartamos reply makes me wonder. Does the difference in instructions reflect on quality of the harness ? Also is the price difference worth it ? Ill be ordering one soon.

Yes mystery solved. Emailed EZ Wire and they helped sort it out. The ignition switch needed a jumper from IGN1 to IGN2. They told me what all went where on my ignition switch.Fuel pump works so not installing oil pressure switch. It is a quality harness. Some of the wording was hard to read(combo small wire&weak eyes) but it is a standard gm wiring harness. More circuits than I need.Technical assistance "saved the Day". I would use the harness; as it being labeled every few inches really helped me.