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#1225719 07/16/2017 2:42 AM
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 311
8
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 311
My ignition switch is pretty loose. I have the rear wire connections on tight, but the 'inner body' that houses the electrical connections is not tight in the housing. If I bump the rear while opening or closing the hood vent it tends to shut off the ignition. What are the suggestions for rebuilding or having the ignition switch rebuilt? I believe the exterior "thumb switch" is specific only to the 47-48 models?
Thanks
Curt


Curt Warren
Salt Lake City
1948 1.5ton Loadmaster
http://photobucket.com/48loadmaster
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 28,675
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 28,675
There is a new old stock switch on Ebay right now, without the tumbler and key. The seller's name is "truckman4787". Price isn't bad, and you can swap your tumbler into the new switch assembly.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 888
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 888
There are three tabs that are part of the switch case. These tabs fold over and retain the switch internals. You should be able to bend the tabs tighter while pushing down the Bakelite rear of the switch internals. If you can find the correct switch housing, the lock cylinder can be switched out. The "thumb switch" cylinder doesn't interchange with all housings. Perhaps another bolter has the correct part number for the housing you need.


Ed
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,263
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Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Posts: 4,263


GM 1116452 is the correct ignition

If you use a GM 1116464 you lose the no key feature



Last edited by DADS50; 07/16/2017 4:42 PM.
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 311
8
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 311
Thank You for all of your help Jerry, Ed & Dad50! I am going to remove it and see if I can't re bend the tabs enough to secure it.


Curt Warren
Salt Lake City
1948 1.5ton Loadmaster
http://photobucket.com/48loadmaster
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,059
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,059
I recently tightened up my loose switch by securing the switch in a vice and used a small diameter punch and hammer to mash it a little tighter. You can see where they were dented in originally (probably with a press) in 3 places.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 311
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 311
Thanks 52Carl!


Curt Warren
Salt Lake City
1948 1.5ton Loadmaster
http://photobucket.com/48loadmaster

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