The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts 1946 Chevy 1.5 Ton Transmission Issues

I just picked up what I think is 1946 Chevy 1.5 ton Cab & Chassis truck that is in pieces. I couldn't get the images to attach so here are google drive links to the pictures:

https://goo.gl/photos/aGjWiJaFsXKfetbY8
https://goo.gl/photos/BNWE3AMaa8FV6JYv8
https://goo.gl/photos/DE3CHZ1PtH9ENZ8z8
https://goo.gl/photos/cGMjoGz7VKRVkFoV6

I got the engine running, brakes hold a pedal, but I'm having trouble with the transmission. I can get it to go into the 4 forward gear positions(if I start to let out the clutch it will move forward in all 4 gears), The reverse lockout was frozen, I got it unstuck, but I can't get it into reverse.

Per page 48 of the 1946 GM Heritage Spec Sheet:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&sqi=2&ved=0ahUKEwjOn6iEpvzUAhUC6IMKHWtBBMcQFggkMAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.gmheritagecenter.com%2Fdocs%2Fgm-heritage-archive%2Fvehicle-information-kits%2FChevrolet-Trucks%2F1946-Chevrolet-Truck.pdf&usg=AFQjCNFVKS1O6-jkZMKn-QU8fFtfntHm9A

Reverse should be left and back. I can go left, but I can't even feel any detent to go back into.

On another note, can anyone advise visual differences in the 1941-1946 trucks? I bought this truck with a bill of sale only. The engine block number 3835794 comes back to a 42-53 216cu in block, but the ID number, KBA246257 comes back to a 1952 3100 pickup per this site:

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/models/engine.htm#41eng

There is no VIN tag on the firewall.

Check with your local DMV office, many states are requiring a notarized bill of sale, if so, get it notarized while the seller is easy to find.

If you can find a number anywhere on the frame or body, get that number on the bill of sale, others should pipe up where those numbers are on Chevys.

Ed

Here are locations of 1946 truck serial numbers.

The vehicle serial number or the engine serial number should be on the title/registration (do you have one?) and should be on the bill-of-sale.

Ed,

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll check with the DMV tomorrow.

Tclederman,

The truck has been partially disassembled in the previous owners garage since at least 2007 ( the date on the "brand new" battery). It doesn't have a title or registration.

I checked the firewall per that page and couldn't find any id number.

So, someone removed the VIN tag, so, be careful, see what the DMV says.

Ed

As Ed said, be very careful.

You have no way to prove the truck isn't stolen...missing the firewall tag, no numbers on the frame yet (Chevrolet didn't start stamping frames until 1955) and the engine is from the wrong era truck!

Mike B

In NC and NY you would need to get a bonded title - if the ID tag is missing, has been removed, and/or has been replaced.

If the DMV allows you to get a bonded title, see if you can get/use a bond-price based on the age of truck, as apposed to its appraised value.

Any suggestions on how to get the transmission to go into reverse?

Tim,

How does a bonded title work when there are no numbers to start with...what are you bonding?

Mike B

Mike,

If your state does bonded titles, it will have state rules/form/procedures (probably described on-line).

You might need ID code/numbers - Engine Serial Number and/or Vehicle Serial Number.
You would need a notarized bill of sale, and most likely a title/registration.
You need a vehicle insurance policy in that state.

I had to get a bonded title in NC for my Suburban, even though it had been registered in NY since 1981 (first registered by me in VA in 1971). Luckily, my NY title was based on the Vehicle Serial Number (the engine had that serial number ground off it, many years ago, pre-1971).

I needed a bonded title because I had taken my ID plate off the Suburban for restoration cleaning/painting. Therefore, the NC DMV had no satisfactory proof that the ID plate came off my my Suburban. They told me that new attachment screws/rivets and/or a new looking plate would raise their suspicions.

They told me that new-looking attachment screws cause them to require a bonded title (or, at their choice, they could simply refuse NC title/registration).

In NC (a few months ago), they gave me two new NC ID tags, in place of an ID plate. They installed one new tag in/near the original plate's location (and, one new tag in a secret location) - they took pictures of the tags on the truck, and they took several photos of the truck. When/if a NC police officer stops my Suburban, they can now run/check my new 2017 NC license plate (another story here - I legally have/display a 1954 NC original truck plate on the Suburban). When they run my new NC plate from a patrol car, several photos of the Suburban are displayed to the officer (two photos are of the new NC ID tags).

I will also have to get bonded titles for the two trucks that I am restoring - both had ID plates removed by me during restoration - both were registered in NY by me (luckily).

Luckily, since I collect GMC's, most GMC's have VIN stamped in large numbers right outside frame by front wheel.

Ed

That is correct, Ed - up through May 1949.

My Z-series GM 350 COE is early 1955 - no stamped ID code on the frame.

Is the reverse shift rail rusted in place? If water got in, might have to remove the cover and work it over. Sand blast with walnut shells is a safe way to go. Gentle heat and tapping may be required.

Ed

54ChevyTruck1,

Please report back to the group with what steps you had to take to get the truck titled when it's all said and done...

Thanks,

Mike B

Ed,

Can you advise if there are any resources on that transmission? Pictures or rebuild literature would be helpful before I open it up.

Mike,

Will do.

These trans' are pretty simple, this is how we all learn, so, take one step at a time, take pictures, clean each part as it comes apart, set it aside when cleaned in the order it came apart, thenreassemble if any parts are worn beyond use, search here and other places.

I am sure you will find out soon why the reverse shift rail does not move. Some trans' need to be in a certain gear before the top cover can be removed. At some point you might find it better to replace it with a trans for which parts are readily available-420, 435, 465, 540 series, etc., might involve boring bellhousing retainer hole to a larger size, finding a new bolt hole for one of the mounting bolts.

Ed

Im assuming that you have the 4spd sliding gear transmission with granny low.

That transmission is a very simple transmission to rebuild.
I just rebuilt mine myself and was amazed at how easy it was. All of the bearings are still available from NAPA,
and most of the other parts can be found on E bay, either used or New old stock

The gasket kits are available from Jim Carter.

The easiest way to find the parts it needs, is find yourself a GM parts catalog that covers that truck, as long as you have the original GM part number, you can find what you need.

The bearings also have the numbers stamped on them, and NAPA can cross them.

So, I pulled the top cover of the trans off and the reverse shift fork is rusted to the shaft... I've sprayed it with some kroil and hope it will unstick itself in a day or two.

Everything looks in pretty good shape, so I'm thinking one I get this fork moving again the trans will be in working order.

It's alive!

So, it turned out that the detent ball was there part that was stuck/rusted. With a friend's help pulling on the fork while I pulled on the shifter it finally moved. After putting some grease on the detent and forcing it back and forth a few times, it now shifts with ease.

Took a few tries to get the gears back in the right place and get the cover back on, but it now shifts into all gears and moves back and forth in my driveway.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B93HqBsSfCQnam1JU3FWTFFYbW8/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B93HqBsSfCQnNHV6WDhjNDYwOVU/view?usp=drivesdk

It seems no one has addressed differences in 41-46 trucks for identification. First look at your headlight bucket, if the park light is a 2 piece assembly, as in one piece is lense one piece is the long cover piece, it is 42 to early 47. If it is 3 pieces, one lense 2 seperate top cover pieces it is a 41. Look at the rear window, is it bolted in with a pot metal retainer, 41 if it is only held in place with the rubber grommet, 42-47. There are other slight differences but these are the easiest to see. Hope this helps. Dave

Maybe this "Spot Art Deco trucks like an expert!" Tech Tip will also help a little?

"Differences in the Chevy Art Deco Trucks 1941, and the 1942 thru 1947 First series" [1947 "first series" were actually left-over 1946 trucks.)

Homer52 / Tclederman,

I know my truck is not a 1941. The passenger door has a different hole for lock and handle and the parking light lens is one piece.

Is there any way to tell the difference from 1942-1946/1947 first series? After I get the cab primered, I plan on applying for a new title and registering it. I am assuming it is a 1946 since that is what I was told it was when I bought it, but would like to confirm it if possible...

What are the letters before the numbers on the VIN tag, there were two different letters for '47 vs. '46 as I recall.

Ed

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/chevyresto/4649.htm

Here is 1946 Chevrolet truck serial number locations and meaning. That location would have been the same until the 1946 trucks sold out in 1947. These codes do not match some of the codes given at links above.

I cannot find a GM Specifications document for pre Advance-Design 1947 trucks.

EdPruss/Tcelderman,

The tag on the firewall is missing and the Engine ID is KBA246257 which corresponds to a 1952 216 engine... So I don't have anything to tell me the year.

I guess you get to choose.

ED

I have 3 questions. What do the front fenders look like. Full length on the front or bobbed on the outside? Did you grind and putty the posts at the base of windshield? Were they leaded or bare welds. And finally. Rubber or leather fuel fill neck grommet? If it was leather there will be screw holes around the neck hole.

With the combination of questions I think I could get you within 6 months of production!

Rh

Colorado only requires a notarized bill of sale on older vehicles, I don't know how they deal with no tag.

Ed

im4racin,

Front Fenders:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B93HqBsSfCQndXJXT2hocS1ETms

Windshield: The previous owner did some sanding/grinding. From what I could tell it is leaded not welded.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B93HqBsSfCQnQVczTDVndFJfSU0
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B93HqBsSfCQnM3ZwYS1NQ00xNDA

Fuel Fill Neck: There were no holes around it, I don't have the grommet as the truck was in pieces when I got it.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B93HqBsSfCQnQnZHdm9yOUl5THM

Passenger door:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B93HqBsSfCQnbWthbWJwNjI3UkU

Parking Light lens:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B93HqBsSfCQnTXMyM284bmdzMUk

Hopefully these will help you narrow it down for me...

The full length fenders and lack of leather fuel fill grommet dictates it is a '42 pre war production. Your vin will be mr or ms. Mr will be a 134.5" wheelbase and the ms will be a 160". Not sure where the assembly was at so the 1st 2 numbers of your vin will be difficult to determine. The next 2 will be mr or ms. That is the series designation. The 3rd pair of digits will be between 01 and 12. That will be the month of production. The last 4 are the sequence of build.

The '42 model designations went through the war because if they changed the designation letters it would be considered a new model. The war production board was very fussy about that. So that leads there to be '43, '44, and some '45 production to have '42 vins. The month of production changed to match. '43 will have 13-24 month dates, '44 will be 25-36, and '45 will be 37-48.

Clear?!?!

I have one of each '42, '44, '45, and '46 The 42 is per war and '46 is post war with war parts (left over parts), and the others are full war production with ms series designation.