Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
3 members (Guitplayer, JW51, 1 invisible),
67
guests, and
2
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,050 Posts1,055,757 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 33 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 33 | 52 1/2 ton 3 speed...would there be enough room to install the universal joint ball collar, with the transmission installed? I need new gaskets for the collar nut, so I was going to install the tranny in the meantime. Truck is on the lift. Thanks
Tommy | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Tommy, Yes, the bell/ball cover should be moved back as far as it can go over the torque-tube, in order to move the disconnected u-joint assembly backwards, out of the way. Here is the universal joint ball/bell/cover adjustment procedure.You will have to thoroughly clean the outside of the torque-tube behind the ball/bell/cover. And, you will need to clean/deburr the outside of the ball/bell/cover so it can move/rotate while retaining a seal. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 33 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 33 | Tommy, Yes, the bell/ball cover should be moved back as far as it can go over the torque-tube, in order to move the disconnected u-joint assembly backwards, out of the way. Here is the universal joint ball/bell/cover adjustment procedure.You will have to thoroughly clean the outside of the torque-tube behind the ball/bell/cover. And, you will need to clean/deburr the outside of the ball/bell/cover so it can move/rotate while retaining a seal. But, if I remove the ball collar off the torque tube, would I be able to reinstall it with the transmission installed? The transmission is out right now. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Yes, clean the torque tube and slide the bell/ball/cover and all parts/seals/gaskets as far back as possible.
If/when you buy a clutch assembly kit (clutch, pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bushing) it might have a pilot/alignment tool. That can be used to check the fit of the pilot bushing.
Before you install the clutch assembly, make sure the pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft is good (will have a tight fit against the "snout" on the forward shaft of the transmission). Replace bushing if it is scored or makes a loose fit.
You would then install the correct clutch assembly inside the clutch housing (inside the clutch/bell housing, which will have the clutch release bearing arm attached inside).
You could then do the gasket/seal adjustment procedure outlined in the post above.
Then, install the u-joint assembly. And, finally, close and tighten the ball joint cover.
Do you know anyone nearby who has worked on these trucks? | | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 33 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 33 | Yes, clean the torque tube and slide the bell/ball/cover and all parts/seals/gaskets as far back as possible.
If/when you buy a clutch assembly kit (clutch, pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bushing) it might have a pilot/alignment tool. That can be used to check the fit of the pilot bushing.
Before you install the clutch assembly, make sure the pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft is good (will have a tight fit against the "snout" on the forward shaft of the transmission). Replace bushing if it is scored or makes a loose fit.
You would then install the correct clutch assembly inside the clutch housing (inside the clutch/bell housing, which will have the clutch release bearing arm attached inside).
You could then do the gasket/seal adjustment procedure outlined in the post above.
Then, install the u-joint assembly. And, finally, close and tighten the ball joint cover.
Do you know anyone nearby who has worked on these trucks? I guess I am not explaining very good. The tranny is removed. I then removed the ball collar, ball collar cover, and the round knurled nut. I have everything cleaned up. I can't put the round knurled nut, ball cover, ball collar on yet, because I want to put a new cork gasket in the round knurled nut, which would be the first to go on the torque tube. So, while I wait for the cork gasket, I was going to install the transmission. If I install the transmission now, will I have enough room to install the round knurled nut, ball collar cover, and ball collar back onto the torque tube. Thanks | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | The setup is designed to enable you to replace all that with the transmission in place. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 734 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 734 | Remove the frame crossmember under the rear trans/ball collar support if you haven't already done so. Makes working in this area sooo much easier!
Matthew 6:33 1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100 Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55 Dalton Highway survivor (using original 216) www.truckwithaheart.com | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 | What Skooter says. If you do that, you can install anything in any order. Cut a 2X4 long enough to span the width of the frame to support the torque tube after you drop the crossmember. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | To safely/easily be able to rotate the torque-tube upwards/downwards, and to have a little more space under the truck, jack up the rear of the frame and place heavy-duty jack stands under the frame rails.
Also, it might not be obvious that the 2x4, that Carl helpfully refers-to, should be placed inside the frame rails' "channel" on each side. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 33 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 33 | To safely/easily be able to rotate the torque-tube upwards/downwards, and to have a little more space under the truck, jack up the rear of the frame and place heavy-duty jack stands under the frame rails.
Also, it might not be obvious that the 2x4, that Carl helpfully refers-to, should be placed inside the frame rails' "channel" on each side. Yes, Thanks, I do have the truck on stands with wheels off. I just slid the crossmember back on the frame rail to raise and support the torque tube. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Good - please let us know how this transmission installation works out for you. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 33 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 33 | Good - please let us know how this transmission installation works out for you. Tranny is in, and the 52 is back on the road. Thanks everyone for the advice and parts. TommyJ | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | | | |
| |