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| | | | Joined: Jun 2017 Posts: 120 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2017 Posts: 120 | Hello, am new to the site but not new to vintage vehicles, good to be here for the valuable info.
I was wanting to replace cab mounts on my 54 3100 and wondered how to support the cab while doing this without crushing any body panels.
Thanks | | | | | Joined: Mar 2000 Posts: 1,177 Red dot, center of chest ... | | Red dot, center of chest ... Joined: Mar 2000 Posts: 1,177 | The cab is supported by five rubber mounts. You can lift the cab with a hoist and replace them, or get some friends to help you remove it and set it on the floor. If you use a hoist, make sure you put something between the chains and the metal. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,270 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,270 | If you do one at a time, you can use a long pry bar to lift up a corner at a time and place a spacer between the cab floor and the frame or front cab support to give you room to put in the new rubber mount pieces. You won't hurt a thing.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2017 Posts: 120 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2017 Posts: 120 | | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 164 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 164 | Or like Carl said if you do them one at a time, use a hydraulic bottle jack with a piece of 2x4 or the like to spread out the weight and take pressure off when you unbolt the shackles on the rear and for when you unbolt the fronts | | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 325 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 325 | If the corners are lifted one at a time, can the metal be replaced at the time if necessary? | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,270 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,270 | If the corners are lifted one at a time, can the metal be replaced at the time if necessary? The front cab mount supports can be replaced one side at a time that way.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | I do not like to do one corner at a time, unless I can "settle"/set/support the cab such that I know nothing can be twisted (as might happen from lifting one side higher than the other). | | | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 | Welcome to the club, Posey! And thanks for asking that question, because my '51 has started squeaking on the front left recently, and I think I'm looking at the same job. And thanks for the answers, guys!
"When I rest, I rust"
1951 3100 5 window w/ '56 235
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,270 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,270 | If a cab is so far gone that lifting one corner 1/4" higher than normal to replace a mount would compromise the integrity of the entire cab, then it would indeed not be a good idea to do so. If the cab is that bad, it would be a better choice to look for another cab entirely.
If you loosen both front cab bolts, the rear cab mounts design (either dual shackles, or center pivot mount) will allow a relatively large amount of lifting of the front mounts without torquing the cab at all.
Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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