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#1221165 06/13/2017 1:18 AM
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,084
A
'Bolter
'Bolter
A Offline
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,084
My natural tendency to be a cheapskate has caused me to now be sick and tired of failing cheap casters so seeking advice from you experts. Options are many, see link below. What have you guys had long term success with for concrete floors. Looking for something for a cab dolly, rotisserie, or engine stand application. It's a one man shop so easy rolling/casting is a high priority.

http://shop.servicecaster.com/Produ...vAd2AasXtvu2wyqOtlExkt0FS2Lx7hoCohXw_wcB



Allen
Yeah, well, that's just like, you know , your opinion, man - The Dude

1948 Chevy 3600 - goal Original restoration, Current Stage 1 - Disassembly and getting body in primer
1954 GMC 3100 goal Hot Rod, Current Stage 1 - Get body in primer
1931 Ford Model A 5 window Coupe - Old Skool Hot Rod
1945 Ford 2N Tractor - Runs great
1964 Ford 2000 Tractor - Use it every week
1974 Stingray Corvette

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
G
.
.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
I haven't bought them yet but for a cab dolly I have a secton of original frame with cab mounts.
To it I'll weld some pipe sockets and fit scaffold wheels just like they pin into a buck of scaffolding.
Scaffold wheels are plentiful, robust, and tall for easy rolling over obstacles.
Additionally they're easy to install and remove, so can wheel cab around and when working on it set the dolly on blocks or saw horses without wheels.
Or remove wheels while cab is sandblasted.

You might could use one set of wheels for all your needs.


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,084
A
'Bolter
'Bolter
A Offline
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,084
That's a solid idea Grigg. Multi purpose, and I already have a set of 4 wheels. To build on your idea, as I'm thinking about my bare naked frame sitting there on jack stands. You could weld a piece of pipe to a C - clamp, or just weld a piece of angle iron to the top of a pce of pipe (4 times) and use a C clamp to mount your scaffolding wheels to your frame, temporarily without damaging painted frame. Simple way to make a rolling frame while you outfit the front/rear suspension. You could even use 2 pcs of pipe with more holes to adjust the height as needed and make it a little easier for old backs to work on.

Would need a more solid attachment process to use this setup for your old frame/cab dolly idea. Maybe weld a small length of larger diam pipe and use a pin to secure the legs that accept the scaffolding wheels. That way your cab dolly would store fairly flat when not is use. Good idea. Thanks.


Allen
Yeah, well, that's just like, you know , your opinion, man - The Dude

1948 Chevy 3600 - goal Original restoration, Current Stage 1 - Disassembly and getting body in primer
1954 GMC 3100 goal Hot Rod, Current Stage 1 - Get body in primer
1931 Ford Model A 5 window Coupe - Old Skool Hot Rod
1945 Ford 2N Tractor - Runs great
1964 Ford 2000 Tractor - Use it every week
1974 Stingray Corvette

Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,384
J
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
J Offline
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,384
If you are going to put anything of any weight and leave it in place for more that a day, you need to use cast steel or iron wheels.
Even if the rubber or plastic ones that are rated well above the load ( 150 lbs each x 4 with a 400 lb engine) will flat spot from sitting.
Really annoying when it takes a 2 x 4 to get it rolling.
I usually pick ones with a big mounting flange so I can bolt, clamp, weld them on depending on the construction.

Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,252
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,252
Find a hard durometer material and you shouldn't have any flat spot problems.


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