The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay 6V Ignition Question

I have my 235ci engine on my truck chassis (engine, starter, distributor, ignition coil, battery, generator, everything hooked up) but I do not have my Cab on it yet, so I do NOT have an Ignition Switch wired in. I am using a Pertronix Electronic igniter in my distributor. It is the 1168LS.

Question is: Since I do not have the ignition switch installed yet, do I need to connect the (+) Positive on the Ignition coil to the (+) on the Battery or a power source?

Getting ready to start the engine for the first time this Saturday. I allready have the (+)POS from battery to Starter. Have the (-)NEG from battery to Engine Bell Housing and from there I have a Ground Strap from Bell Housing to Frame. I have the (+)POS from Distributor connected to (+)POS on the Ignition Coil. Also have the (-)NEG from Distributor to the (-)NEG on the Ignition Coil....but alas, since there is no Ignition Switch, do I need a power source (battery) direct to the ignition coil?

Many thanks & apologies if the above has overstated the obvious, very new to this.

I use a switch which you pull for on and push for off. You can wire it to go between the lug on the starter, with the other wire going to your coil. This allows you to hurry up and shut the engine down if something goes wrong.
If you have a functional gauge cluster, I would recommend that you hook up your temperature and oil gauges to the engine so you can monitor whats going on. I rigged a bracket to hang the gauge cluster on, and used the front cab mount bracket hole to mount my on/off switch.
Carl

Thanks Carl. So I take some 10 gauge red wire, add it to the (+) POS on Ignition coil, hook it up to an on/off switch, and then from the switch, connect it to the lug on the starter? Does it matter if I put it on top of the battery connection already on the starter lug, just remove the nut, set the new wire on top of the battery connection on the starter lug and then replace the nut?

Yes, the battery cable lug on the starter is a suitable location to connect your switch. I don't know what year/model your truck is- I'm assuming it's a Chevy and not a GMC (early GMC are typically positive ground, unlike the Chevy)?
I also am not familiar with that particular Pertronix unit- I assume that it is for a 6volt system and that you have a 6volt coil as well?

As Carl said, hook up your gauge cluster so that you get oil press & water temp. I you have a box fan at home, put it right against the front of the radiator too...

Let us know how it goes.

Yes, it's a 1948 Chevrolet 1/2 Ton Truck. My motor is a '62 235ci. I've set it up with 1948 specs, so I have a 6V battery & Ignition coil, 6v starter, the flywheel is 139 teeth for 6v, also using a 6v Generator. It's a complete frame off restoration, so took it down to just a frame, had it blasted & painted, then installed new brakes, new brake lines, new pressure plate, clutch, had the Muncie SM420 restored at Novak Transmissions in UT, motor is a rebuilt 235 with all new ancillary parts.

For the gauges and the temp sender; where would I hook those up (do they need to go thru a Voltage regulator or terminal or wire them up direct?

Carl, I found some push/pull on/off switches at TractorSupply Store, these are labeled as 12V, is it OK if I'm using it on my 6v system for this purpose?

12V items won't be as heavy duty as 6V would be, but might hold up for temporary use

Bill

The (+) POS battery cable came with an auxillary lead. In setting up this switch, is it ok if I use 14 gauge wiring from the battery to the coil, or should it be larger, like 12ga or 10ga? Want to make sure I get enough elec to the Ignition Coil.

14 gauge should be plenty.