The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors Insulation/Sound deadening

Anybody have experience with insulation in the cab? What I really want to know is the difference between insulation sheeting and sprays like Lizard Skin. Differences meaning price, effectiveness, ease of installation, etc.

You'll probably get a million opinions on this topic. Here's mine. I used this stuff after researching a bunch. Price was excellent for the amount of meaterial you got, easy to use and made a BIG sound difference. Not every surface had to be covered. Just enough pieces to deaden the "tin" sound on my panels in my Suburban. I'm sure that the more you use, the quieter things will be.

I've been doing this:

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1202676/2.html

I have yet to get it on the road yet though, so I can't really report on any effectiveness :), but SUPER cheap.

MNSmith, does one box of 10 cover everything?

Goach2, I've been following that thread, since I want rubber mats and I have removed the bench seat and will put in buckets, so I want the floor mat to cover everything. I expect for sound deadening, I will need something under the rubber mat, though I could be wrong.

I used Dynamat in the '48 2 ton and was very happy with the sound and heat insulation. It is very durable on the floor under the carpet, and it is thin so there isn't a problem with it taking up space. I covered every inch of space I could reach (under side of cowl, inside doors, etc)
Downside is that that you have to plan ahead and apply it carefully. Once it touches the surface, you are not likely to ever move it again. One small spot I was determined to pull off after slipped and touched too soon, only came off after I pulled so hard the paint came off the metal.
It's not cheap, but you what you pay for. I am using it on the COE I'm doing now.

My headliner was already in with the cheap foil bubble stuff. So, I used it under the dash, in the doors, as much as I could in the sides through the small access holes, and in the lower sections of the cargo doors. The doors now "thud" instead of sounding tinny. In fact, only the lower third of the cargo doors are done since there is no access to the upper two thirds without cutting them open. Noticeable difference!

Coverage, get out the ol' tape measure and figure out the square footage. My plan wasn't to cover every square inch and the stuff did what I needed it to do.

By my rough calculation, one box will cover 25 square feet. The flat floor alone is, what? Probably 9-10 square feet? So, one box might do floor and firewall. Another box to do roof and back wall? You're not doing so bad at around $120. And you added 40 lbs. Just make sure the surface your sticking to is clean and stick worthy.

I used dynamat extreme under seats and around fuel tank. Deadened some sound. I will be using more as I complete under the dash, doors and floors. I am pleased so far!

Chris

What about the space between the inner and outer sheet metal around the rear window? That area is like a metal drum.... has anyone tried expanding foam. or some other kind of filler material to quiet that area?

A hailstorm on the roof of my tonner panel instantly convinced me to buy vast quantities of sound deadening. I was, quite literally, driving a fifteen foot long kettle drum for an eight-minute jazz solo. My cheapo alternative to Dynamat was Peel'n'Seal wall insulation, found on sale at the home improvement mega-mart. It's thinner, non-aerated rubberized asphalt sheets; still foil backed for thermal insulation and instantly adhesive to any surface. It doesn't silence the interior like Dynamat can, but it stops the giant kettle drum effect. As an added bonus it stops the windowless steel tube from becoming a sauna/pizza oven.

I packed the barn door cavities with closed-cell expanding foam to see how it would work, no roll-up windows to work around back there. I don't recommend it, not because it's ineffective as a sound/heat insulator... it's brilliant at that. I don't even mind that it increased the weight of each door by over ten pounds. The problem is permanence; I have moisture accumulating inside the door below the foam and cancer is starting to bubble the paint again. Imagine that, just fifteen years parked under a tree and my brushed-on Rustoleum paintjob is failing. I'll need to dissolve the foam with a solvent to get to the rust.

I found a 100% polyester comforter and jammed it into the gap between the roof struts and skin. That may be a good direction for the space between body panels, it won't mold or rot if it gets damp. And you can just yank it out and clean the cavities, no solvent required.

I was talking to a restoration shop, here in the Phoenix Arizona area about sound deadeners. They used a product from Deimos Deals, in Texas. They handed me an invoice from one of the boxes. I ordered it from them. Seems to look and work like the brand name products, for a fraction of the price. Here is a link to them.

http://stores.ebay.com/Deimos-Deals?
_trksid=p2047675.l2563

Hope this helps you with your restoration.

Rugo

Sounds like lots of good ideas, but I guess no one has tried Lizard Skin or another spray on. But I was leaning toward the mat anyway. I still need to finish body work, but I didn't want to wait until the last minute to figure out how I was going to do it.