The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Starter Alignment

I'm just curious if anyone has found a way to adjust the starter engaging lever left or right? My pedal is rubbing on the side of the hole in the floor and needs to move (even slightly) I have changed the cab mounts and all the other pedals seem to line up pretty good, just the starter that doesn't.

Thanks!

I wonder if you have a problem with the engine mounts?

Geez, I hope not! Anything in particular to look for?

Crap, I think you may be right Dave. I just took these pics and there's a bar of some sort wedged between the motor and cross member. On the side that would move the starter pedal to where it is.

https://goo.gl/photos/yccNmW2YLHnEsRnR6
https://goo.gl/photos/HZM31TC3PLNDpZy49

Any tips on replacing mounts? How difficult is it?

Thanks

Wow, is that a broken crossmember or is the photo messing with my already poor eyes?🛠

I believe you're looking at some dripped black paint on the cross-member... so it's not you.

Whew!!!!

Good call Dave!
(He's a genius, who doesn't bloviate.)

So, after finding this issue with the passenger side mount, I called up my local old-truck parts place and told them I needed a couple mounts and new bolts. He asked me if it was a 5/8 or 11/16 bolt. So I went out to take a look. I crawled under, but the passenger side was so caked-up that I decided to look at the driver's side instead, since it was fairly clean. I tried getting a socked down into it, but something seemed to be in the way. I reach my fingers into it and pull out... a motor mount bolt that was sitting in the mount cup! Then I noticed another piece of steel wedged between the engine and cross-member on this side as well! Using a mirror I looked down into the mount and sure enough, there are two empty bolt-holes on the driver's side. Basically, there is not much holding this engine even in the truck itself!

Is this something they would do for say a farm truck that didn't really leave the property? What are the chances that the mounting holes in the bell-housing are going to be messed up and unable to take a new bolt!

Might want to check the rivets on your rear engine support while you're down there looking at it... all 4 mounting ears on my support crossmember were broken off...
Broken Rear Engine Support

Funny you mention that, I am missing one rivet in that cross-member. Did you re-rivet? Or if you put a bolt in, do you recall what size it was?

I ended up buying some precision shoulder bolts and shim washers from McMaster, reaming the holes to match the bolts, then shimming for a good, torqued fit. They were a nice, tight fit. Hopefully the repair will last.
Donor crossmember installed with shoulder bolts

I used bolts with a 1/2" Diameter shoulder, 3/8" diameter thread, and reamed the holes to size with a 1/2" hand ream after drilling the holes to the size just under 1/2". If you're interested in re-riveting, Deve's Technet has a whole picture show with him re-riveting a crossmember.

Just to circle-back on this post, here's the progress that I've made;

This past Friday my helper came by (my father) and we pulled the mount off the passenger side of the bell-housing. Once the bolt to the cross-member was removed, it was evident that the portion that bolts to the bell-housing had snapped off:

https://goo.gl/photos/thAxkmXPy8AZhUSA8

We removed it, cleaned it up but could not get the mount back on, because of the engine listing to that side. So we went after the driver-side mount next. After removing the bolt through the cross-member, the mount fell off. The bottom bell-housing bolt was long gone and the top one... snapped off inside. After freaking out a little I managed to back it out with a reverse thread drill bit. Luck for me, it was only dirty and not corroded. We mounted up that side and a slight tug got the bolt to drop into the cross-member.

Back to the passenger side, with a little more jack under the oil pan, we were able to get the mount secured to the bell-housing. The hole through that cross-member was pretty far off and I had my doubts that it could be maneuvered into it. A little (or a lot) of work with a long 2x4 and sure enough, it dropped in as well.

After all this, a quick test drive did seem to show it shifting a little easier, although it still needs some carb work and likely timing as well.

Back in the cab, I was able to finally slip the rubber bellows fully onto the starter pedal, which was what started this whole thread. I was surprised that it didn't move more into the middle of the toe board hole, but I'll take it.