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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,081 Posts1,056,078 Members48,434 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2015 Posts: 406 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2015 Posts: 406 | Hi all , I have a 1962 c 30 with a 235 cu in. Early last season I removed the head to address some valve issues and also had the head an (848) planed about 5 thou. I managed to put on about 3500 miles in the next few months but at about 2500 miles I noticed some slime in the oil .As the rad was leaking a bit I wasn't sure where it came from.I removed the rad for repairs then capped the inlets into the water pump, then filled the block up to the thermostat and let it sit for a couple of weeks. When I next looked at it the coolant level had dropped and the oil level had rose . I suspected the head gasket , a composite one and replaced it with a copper and copper gasket sealer and installed it again with the same results , leaking into the oil pan . I had the head magnufluxed when the valves were done and it was reported to be fine .when I removed it this time I could find no obvious sings on the gasket or head or block of leakage.
I was wondering if there's something else I should check before replacing the head.
thanks John
good planning is no substitute for dumb luck
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,795 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,795 | Have a machine shop pressure test the head instead of magnafluxing it. There are places a crack can hide that magnaflux can't find. By pressurizing the head all the hidden spots are tested. It's also possible for cracks to be in the block, not the head, such as around the valve lifter area and the bottom of the water jacket above the crankcase. It's also possible to pressure test a block, but it's a lot more work than testing a head.
You could take the valve cover and side cover off, fill the radiator with water, and put a few pounds of air pressure on the cooling system. Bypass the heater core first, and don't spring any leaks in the radiator by overdoing it on pressure. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2015 Posts: 406 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2015 Posts: 406 | Thanks for the input,I'll follow up on your suggestions and get back to you when I find the leak
John
good planning is no substitute for dumb luck
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2015 Posts: 406 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2015 Posts: 406 | Well I put the rad back in , hooked up the hoses ,took the side cover off then pressurized the tank and then nothing . After hours of looking I found no tell tale signs of a leak this time so I put the everything back together , fired it up ,let it get good and warm , re torqued everything , changed the oil and have done about 200 miles since then and all is well., -----for now
good planning is no substitute for dumb luck
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