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| | | | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 265 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 265 | Hello all,
I have a question, that has probably been covered. But, I didn't find anything in a quick search of the archives. I have a 53 3100. Getting ready for glass. I would like to remove my vent window handles. I have a nice NOS pair that I would like to install. What is the best way to take the old handles off?
Thank you in advance for your help and advice.
Rugo
Steve Rugg
53 3100
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 1,384 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 1,384 | There is a roll pin through the bottom of the body (parallel to the handle). Drive it most of the way through and the handle will come off. Just drive it back in if you reuse the handle. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 209 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 209 | A couple of tips that may be helpful. The pin has probably been in there since day 1, give it a shot of penetrating oil. Try to support the frame so you don't accidently snap the pivot off when you knock the old pin out.
When you put the handle back on, channellock type pliers work great to press the pin back in. I've ground a small chamfer on the starting end to let them start easier also. John
Last edited by tinnerjohn; 05/22/2017 10:08 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 265 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 265 | Jim & John,
Thank you for your help. I felt like there should be a set screw, or something that should come out. However, my handles had 60 plus years of crud on them. So, I just didn't see the small roll pin, you guys pointed out. Now, that I know what to look for, I have taken a brass bristle brush to them. I can see what you are talking about. The penetrating oil, sounds like a very good idea. I will take care to use all of your advice.
Thank you for your help.
Rugo
Steve Rugg
53 3100
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 265 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 265 | Excellent advice and direction, from you guys. Cleaned up the handles well enough to identify where there roll pins were. Braced the frame in my vise, with rubber bumpers. Sprayed penetrating oil on the pins. Used a small center punch and hammer. They slid right out. Thank you again for the help.
Rugo
Steve Rugg
53 3100
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 209 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 209 | I'd suggest using a pin punch to avoid spreading the ID of the roll pin. I had one I shortened because a stock length punch could bend, but in the glass shop the boss didn't always want us to let the penetrant have time to work. Glad I could help you, John
Last edited by tinnerjohn; 05/23/2017 4:30 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 265 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 265 | John,
In trying to describe the punch that I used, it wasn't technically a center punch. The correct term is a pin punch. I have a set that has both center and pin punches in it. I did use a pin punch to push the pins out. I can see how shortening them up would be beneficial. I did put a slight bend in it, from a prior project. With the penatrating oil, and no rust to speak of, they came out quite easily. Thank you for clarifying, for anybody that would read my post and try to use the wrong punch. Thank you again for the advice and guidance.
Rugo
Steve Rugg
53 3100
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