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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,113 Posts1,056,619 Members48,450 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 237 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 237 | Can you guys take a look at my rusty fenders and tell me how best to repair? I found a long bed 65 that I plan to use the entire front end for my SB 64. I started cleaning up the front fenders and found the old dreaded rust. After looking and sanding, I can see that the rust is not completely thought like so many are for this year. What do you guys do in cases like these? Should I sand blast and fill or should I cut out? http://community.webshots.com/myphotos?action=viewAllPhotos&albumID=553518209&ran=28943
Jesus is Lord! Only through the blood of Jesus are you washed clean of your sins. Come see us... Dad's Chevy Our VideoGod bless you! Michael..
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 121 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 121 | New steel fenders or patch panels are available. If you don't cut the rust out it will come back.
Dave 66 GMC- father /son project with the "GMC KID" 36 Chevy PU- 4x4 lifetime project 64 Skylark- wife says its hers
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 | These are typical rust areas. That fender doesn't really look too bad. Both of mine had about 10 lbs of filler in that area and I am not exagerating. Hard to say just from looking at the picture but, on the fender I'd probably grind to bare metal, drill out the holes and use a sheet metal punch to make a disc that will fit in drilled hole. Weld it, smooth it. This is a good technique for metal that's not too thin yet from corrosion and has random holes. I'd guess a lot of that area on fender is right over where the inside brace is, where dirt and moisture gets trapped. You can get cab corners and lower door skins from the parts places. That floor area next to the seat looks like it probably has some pretty thin metal. You'll probably have to cut that out and weld new metal. On my truck, I did a combination of replacing metal and using filler with hair. It's not a show truck and I wanted to drive it in a relatively short period of time. If the filler areas last 2 years (a reasonable expectation when it's not a daily driver and is garaged) I'll be happy. I'm having fun driving it to car events. More fun than if it was still all torn apart having all the metal replaced. The areas where I did the filler, I cleaned up good and then applied a paint called Rust Bullet which thus far, I've had good luck with. It's tough stuff and provides a good barrier. Even on the areas where I replaced metal, I took extra precaution to try and avoid repeat rust out. Some spots I used Rust Bullet or an anti-corrosion compound from Eastwood or both. The Eastwood stuff comes in a spray can and is a oily, waxy substance that is good for inside doors and rockers. You've just gotta decide what you're going for with the truck. Restoring, show truck, just making it a good driver? And then get to work. -David | | | | | Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 75 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 75 | Michael, thats nothing. you wanna see some rust let me send ya some pics.LMC,Chevy duty,and Early restoration, all have patch panels.If you want to keep somewhat factory, its time to go huntin at the junkyards.Me I am looking for a donor cab myself its rusted so bad.Good luck with your project.
"you can't fix stupid"
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 237 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 237 | Thanks, Captian_napalm, David and Dave for the replies. I plan to restore the truck as original as I can and use it mostly to drive out to the bluegrass pickins with my kids. 
I do not care to do the show truck thing. This old rusty thing was my Dad’s and has a lot of sentimental value. The highlight of my childhood was riding in this thing early on Saturday mornings and stopping by the country store to get a Coke (in a glass bottle) and a pack of crackers. As a kid I remember spending a lot time under the thing with dad putting a new clutch in it from time to time. He was very rough on a clutch. I think I was the only third grader in my class that understood what a release bearing did. Sorry to get all sentimental on the post..
I think I am going to try David’s suggestion and try to just cut out as much of the rust as I can and wield in some repair patches. That is what I hope anyway. David is right too.. The rust is mostly where that back brace is on the back of the fenders. So, I guess my next big question is… How would you get that brace off the back of the fender without destroying the fender? I was thinking if could get behind it and repair the holes I would be able to treat the back side of the fender with zero rust or something. Do you think it would be wise to use some of the steel from say the door of another old truck that is no longer useable for a door?
Jesus is Lord! Only through the blood of Jesus are you washed clean of your sins. Come see us... Dad's Chevy Our VideoGod bless you! Michael..
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 622 Member | | Member Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 622 | Don't mess with the rusted fenders. Order some new steel fenders from chevyduty.com
delete my account and pictures
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