The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop sheet metal, sheet metal, sheet metal

OK...Here's my problem. I was gonna start replacing sheet metal on my truck next month. I thought I was gonna have enough $$$ to purchase all the sheet metal I'll need but something came up. Now I only have half. List of sheet metal includes:

-Floor/toeboard(both)
-Inner cowls(both)
-Inner to out cowls(both)
-Right side outer cowl
-Left bottom half outer cowl
-Bottom rear caps(both)
-Rocker panels(both)
-Bottom front pillar(one)
-Bottom rear pillar(one)
-Front cab mounts(both)

I wasn't planning on replacing everything all at once due to time restraints, but I would like to get started with something. My question is...What would you guys start with first to get started? I was thinking the floor/toeboards should be the first item. What are your recommendations after that?

Thanks

Any structural parts I would do first. Make sure everything is braced to keep aligned. Are you making any of the parts? Some of the outside cowls or cab bottoms or corners can be handmade using sheet metal and bending yourself if you have the time/ability/tools. Taking your time and asking a lot of questions work too. I am by no means an authority. I just like puttering. pics below

Dan
http://community.webshots.com/photo/512683224/2513280780071274430pylrqH

That's some pretty major surgery. Make sure you mock everything up and re-fit the doors, fenders and hood before you go and paint it. You are most likely going to warp something even if you brace it well.

I am assuming that your webshots are of the cab in question. If so, you have a great advantage with it on a stand on it's end. It is more difficult to replace these items with the cab in place.

You should make references somehow to show the exact locations of key features as you replace parts. Also you will probably find the new floor boards have the holes incorrectly located. One feature that I learned about late in the process was the support bushings for the mounting bolts that go between the floor and the cab supports.

Has anyone tried the complete floor pans($500+)? I would think that the cost would be offset by the time savings.

Andy

mummdog,

You might consider getting a new/used cab. There was a cab and fenders on e-bay for ~$500. This would be alot easier. Not to mention once you replace all of these parts will everything still fit together?

Good Luck.

My original cab was in need of major surgery like you. I decided it would be a lot cheaper to get a donor cab and found one for $500 that was straight, no holes, no rust... Even in if you pay $1,000 for the cab you are going to save lots of money and time. From the list of sheet metal you gave, the price of just the patch panels is more than a good used cab would be.

Thanks for the replies. The idea of getting another cab has definitly crossed my mind but I have more time then money right now. I've already ordered the right and left side toeboard/floor sections along with both rockers, both lower outer cowls. I'll probably get the rest in a couple of weeks.

I've done my fair share of welding at a prior job, mostly stick welding on thick stock with some mig on heavier sheet metal. My question is...when welding in the toe/floor, have you guys butt welded the new toeboard to the old or would it make sense to flange weld it on? My main concern is burning holes through the sheet metal if I butt weld.

Thanks alot