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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 127 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 127 | with wheels straight ahead, I get 1 3/4 turns to the right and 2 1/4 turns to the left. where do I start for adjusting this? also any ideas on where to get steering box rebuilt. thanks, don. | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,060 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,060 | Sounds like the drag link between the steering arm on the box and the spindle need to be adjusted. They usually have a turnbuckle style sleeve in the middle that can be turned to shorten/lengthen the drag link. They usually aren't so far off, just the steering wheel is at a wonky angle when going straight.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 Crusing in the Passing Lane | | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 | Or, perhaps the steering wheel is a few splines off on the shaft? Might check that first before fooling with drag link.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,212 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,212 | Drag links are not adjustable unless it has been modified. To center the gear box, unhook the drag link from the pitman arm or steering arm, doesn't matter which one. Put a ring of masking tape around the steering column right at the steering wheel base, then but a ring around the steering wheel, this is so you can make small marks for center adjustment. Turn the wheel to the far right, count number of turns to the far left. Pay no attention to the spokes of the steering wheel, you are simply counting turns. Return the steering wheel 1/2 the amount of full turns. Make a mark on the masking tape. Return the wheel to the right, and double check that 1/2 of the total turns gets you back to your center mark. If the steering box is adjusted correctly, you should feel a slight drag as you cross your center mark. If you do not feel the drag, now is a really good time to adjust it. Follow this GM guide for adjusting the box, https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/sets/72157632210242370/ All GM boxes are about the same design so the adjusting procedures are the same. Once you are satisfied you have found the center of the gear box, remove the steering wheel and center it so the spokes are in the correct location. It may already be centered and you need not do anything with it. Once the steering wheel and box are centered, reattach the drag link. If the steering wheel is still offset, you have mismatched parts or loose parts. 1) Spring bushings can cause the axle to shift, thus making the drag link the incorrect length. 2) Leaf spring center pins can shift or break, causing the drag link to be incorrect. 3) Steering stops, can be adjusted incorrectly. 4) Incorrect pitman arm, but unlikely. 5) Incorrect steering arm, again unlikely but you never know. 6) Measure the wheel base ( front to back )on both sides, are they the same? They better be. If your gear box is not leaking or binding, a simple clean up and adjustment is probably all it needs. Follow the above guide and do it yourself. The hardest part is getting it out of the truck. Check with the vender links on this web site for parts. You will be glad you did it yourself when you are finished and will safe a bunch of money in the process. For gear oil, John Deere Corn head grease is the cheapest option going. You are looking for a NLGI grade 00 or 0 grease, anything else is to stiff. Joe | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,060 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,060 | I didn't realize that the drag links were not adjustable on '46 trucks (actually not even sure it is on my '51 as I haven't paid attention to that part yet). But unless you either change the position of the pitman arm on the steering sector shaft, or change the length of the drag link after centering the steering gear, the wheels would still not be straight given the OP's description. That assumes that the steering is hitting the stops at the knuckles on one side. I also don't know if the pitman arm can be installed to the sector shaft in a different position or if they have a blind spline for alignment. A blind spline is the way it's taken care of on modern iron.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 Crusing in the Passing Lane | | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 | To modify a blind spline Pitman arm for special application, get your small 3 cornered file, turn on your favorite ball game, while removing the 'blind' part.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,212 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,212 | I never could get mine to center. I had new springs, bushings, drag link, and tie-rods. Something was not correct, but the truck drove fine, steering wheels just not centered all the time. I had a rod made with left and right threads, then used replacement tie-rod ends for an adjustable drag link. It's surprising how little you need to turn it to change the wheel position. Also, with the gear box centered and adjusted properly, high driving is no longer a chore. I can drive miles with very little steering wheel movement. | | |
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