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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,075 Posts1,055,916 Members48,429 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
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| | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 11 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 11 | I just finish to restore the brakes of my 1954 pickup 1/2 ton.
While i was doing that, i removed the backing plate and painted as well as other pieces on the wheel and brake.
To do it i got the pieces on vinegar to peel the rust off, then i used the grinder until bare metal. For painting i used a regular black spray can i got from Home depot.
After that small experience with paint, i have been thinking on slowly remove some pieces and get them painted as well as frame under bed, etc
well the question is, how to do it on a proper way. any rust stabilizer? what is primer? how many layers of paint? etc
I have to say 2 things: a) i will send my pickup to be painted by a professional on the exterior and cab, i just want to know what to do with those areas that i'm getting restored (axles, springs, chassis, etc) and b) i don't have any knowledge on painting
thanks for the help | | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 69 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 69 | You can use phosphoric acid (Hardware store) for a rust converter. If you are priming with a gun, I like epoxy primer. If your priming with a spray can it don't matter, most sprays are lacquer base. A couple of coats is usually good.
New deal for old steel
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