The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Truck body reassemble sequence ('46 Chevy 1/2 ton)

Did a search in the SB for a reassemble sequence. Sparky the '46 Chevy 1/2 ton is at the stage in its restoration that reassemble of the cab interior and bed can begin. Front end sheet metal is still at the body shop. Cab has been installed on the chassis.
What sequence is typically used to avoid rework etc.?
My idea. Comments and alternatives welcome.

Start with cab interior:

A). Install insulation
B) Install electric wipers, note these were pre-fit and checked before body work.
C). Install gas tank and seat rail supports
D). Install steering column and pull horn wiring through
E). Install headliner
F). Install top valance, (wiper cover)
G) Install pre-wired dash with gauges

H) Install windshield crank assembly
I) Install rear cab/window sheet metal and cab corners with metal trim pieces
J). Install remaining trim parts and kick panels.
K). Install toe and floor boards
L). Install windshield and back glass
M) Complete wiring from engine bay to dash including horn and steering wheel
N) Install doors, related hardware (glass pre-installed)
O). Install door gaskets
P). Install seats

Box Installation will follow instructions provided with Mar-K kit.

NOTE: If not done already, start and drive the truck to make sure ALL mechanicals are working as needed. It’s a lot easier to access the engine and transmission now without the running boards and fenders in the way.

Q. Install the running boards.

Front end sheet metal:

AA). Fenders attached to inner panels before installing to cab and radiator
hoop
BB). Install front inner sheet metal baffles to fender fronts and radiator hoop
CC). Install lower valance
DD). Install grill and related pieces
EE). Complete the wiring to headlights and rear lights.

Install the windshield before the valence. You need to be able to adjust the hinges in or out. Do you have the drain tubes in the corners of the windshield at the cab?

Thanks, GW. No. I did not know about the drains. This project was mostly received in pieces from the PO's widow. What do I need and where do the tubes fit?

You might want to do the headliner before the steering column for a little more working room. One thing I found useful when putting in the steering column was to wrap cardboard around it and secure with tape. I wrapped all the way around leaving the top 1/4 open with the wire. Mostly just need something to protect scratching if it scrapped the seat base. Just made it easier for me. For different reasons I've had mine in/out a few times.

Dennis

Sparky,

I agree on installing the headliner before the steering column so there is a little more room to work.

The windshield channel weep tubes should be soldered into the lower outside part of the cab. They are ~3/16 copper tubes about 2-3 inches long. A short section of rubber line connects the weep tube to another ~3/16 copper tube that runs along the door hinge pillar exiting outside of the cab. I hope my description makes some sense.

Thanks guys! That makes sense.

The drains and plumbing as Paul described apparently disappeared from Sparky long ago. From the location description, I wonder now if that is the reason the bottom front corners, both sides, of the cab were so badly corroded? Metal was mostly all gone for part of the corners. I have wondered why those areas decayed as they did. It looked like the cab had rested in water at those points, but there was no corresponding decay on the frame or elsewhere nearby. I have seen other models of these trucks with similar damage. I will now have to figure out how to reinstall these drains.

If your truck will be a fair weather vehicle, you may be okay without them...just towel the area dry if it does get wet. My 42 truck is still in the reassembly stage and I think I could get you some images if you are interested.

Lee, isn't restoration a hoot!🛠

Paul
Yes, please post some photos, of possible. If not an email will work too. An address is in my profile or I can send one to you via a PM. <<< No need now, see the following post update.>>>>.

Yes, it is a hoot, Martin. Sometimes in recent days I can understand a little bit how frustrated a mule must feel, stuck between two hay bales and trying decide which to begin eating first.

Had time today to recheck for the windshield drain holes and tubing. I found them! The windshield holes were plugged and short tubes from each clogged. The longer sections of tubing had been disconnected and bent behind the "A" pillar, out of site. The bottom ends were no where near the outlet port at cab bottom and both were plugged/clogged as well. All were cleaned and reattached as apparently they should have been using the original spot welded steel clips. Now, I need to get the rubber hose pieces that join upper and lower copper tubing sections.

Thanks guys for the heads up on that step!

Yep, sounds like you have recovered the drain system. Odd engineering huh? Took some pictures but hard to explain as they are completely hidden from view. Glad to hear that the drain tubes are still present as they would be somewhat difficult to replace without damaging new paint.

Yes, that was a relief. Otherwise I likely would have not risked the paint damage. Sparky will be a fair weather ride as long as I am owner. Appreciate your effort with taking the photos.

It appeared the system had not been operable for a very long time, maybe even from the factory. One of the tubes was way short of even reaching the drain port at cab bottom.

Glad you found the drain tubes. If you use the cardboard head liner you need to preform the bends near the doors. I set up a jig and increased the bend each day for a week. It worked well. Seems like you need to install the cow! Vent hinges before the dash. The other thing that would be easier is to install the front radiator support and wishbone before the dash. I had to adjust the nuts after the dash was in. Not impossible to do later just tight spaces.

Thank you GW! I had not considered the radiator support rod install. Doing the install of all the items you listed now would make the tasks easier.

As for the headliner, I have a cardboard headliner. I was thinking of making a plywood jig with several cab corner arc matched pieces, arranged in parallel and separated several inches apart. Then lightly wetting the cardboard back side and bending it over the curved jig, and clamping or pressing it into shape while it drys. Is that the similar to your method?

When I put my drain tubes back in, I changed to 1/4" copper tube and hose. This was to allow a larger drain opening so as not to plug as easy.
Harold

I bent my headliner dry. I read some of the posts on this and some people had problems when they wetted the card board. I painted the cardboard and did not want to get everything out again. I just laid it out and supported it about 3 inches off the , well table saw, and then slowly add more radius each day after work. I have photo's in photo bucket.

Harold that's such a great idea. Amazing what you don't think of when your restoring.

I agree. It is a great idea. I just looked my windshield opening to see if the paint around the inlet hole could withstand that remedy. I think it would be too risky.

Didn't get much done on Sparky today. Too much yard work got in the way.

The drain is soldered in place so I would be very reluctant to change it at your stage in the restoration. I don't really think it as that relevant with a pampered classic as it will never be subject to long periods out in the weather.

Is it possible for one of you guys to post some pictures of the drain holes your talking about.Im going to be pulling the dash soon so might be a good time to repair mine

You should be able to see the about 1/8" inside diameter drain holes, one in each lower corner of the windshield/cab frame opening. With the kick panel removed on each side, look behind the "A" pillar for a copper tube that extends from the top holes described and leading down to and passing through a hole in the front cab corners. It's possible the tube may not be aligned with the bottom hole after this many years. Sparky's were not and the holes at top and bottom were plugged. If you still can't find these, send me a PM with your email address and I'll take some photos to send you.

Edit for additional info: There is a short rubber hose that connects the 3/16" OD copper tube to the short, about 2 inch long tube at the top hole, on each side. The copper tube is held in place along the "A" pillar with two pliable clips each about 1/2" wide. The bottom of the copper tube passes through, barely, a hole in the outside corner of the "A" pillar.

On page 10 of 16 in my photo bucket shot you can see the hole. It is visible from outside the windshield opening bottom corner each side.

Take a look at these seven PHOTOS.
Harold

Ok Thanks for the input this is something I didn't know before. This enter the dash is coming out to get painted and new gauges going in so that will be a good time to address this as well.

Question about installing the two piece card board headliner. Does the front section of the headliner fit under the front valance or on top in the recess the molding screws into? Also, does the rear headliner section fit under the cab rear upper inner lining panel (Group 16.589 in the Master Parts Catalog)?

..............
Doing this install solo is a patience endurance test!!!! Strong magnets, and a wood prop help...magic incantations of 4 letter words do not.😱🙄

Also learned the center support bow that screws to the cab above the door centers and holds the center headliner retainer needs to have the holes used to secure that retainer oriented with the short distance to the edge facing forward. Also, the opening for the center retainer that captures and holds the headliner, faces forward.

Starting a new thread on the headliner installation with lessons learned. This can be done solo, but it takes time, patience, stubbornness and taking time outs when frustration sets in.

The answers to both questions above is NO!

The bed has been assembled and installed on the chassis.

The doors are on. There is a problem with the locking door latch on the right side. A spring is missing in part of the lock lever/cam assembly. Learning now how to make a replacement spring. Never thought I’d have to do that, but apparently there is no other option. Replacement searches have turned up zip. YouTube has numerous “how to” videos. The window regulator assembly also had a broken spring. The solution was to replace the spring and housing with a reproduction regulator kit from Chevs of the 40’s

Keep plugging away Lee, you got til the 24th. LOL

Finally got the spring made, installed and working today, with the help of a new friend, John. He had a tool he’d made for making jewelry and is somewhat similar to one shown in one of the YouTube videos using a hand crank drill assembly with large drill chuck mounted on a base secured to a work bench.

The epilogue to this saga and the “fun part”...this evening I received an email notice from eBay reporting availability of a NOS latch. Now I have another one for a spare.