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#1215095 04/28/2017 6:12 AM
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Can any one tell me how or wat to use to repair cracks in my steering wheel and wat paint is best to use.

josie #1215101 04/28/2017 12:37 PM
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As per recommendations on here, I hand sanded with 150x, blew all the cracks out with a blow gun, and filled each and every crack, a few at a time, with clear epoxy (like the syringe type). Few days drying/curing time, go back and sand the cracks with 150x or 180x. Once all of them were done, spray primed it with hi-build spray can primer, lightly sanded again, spray painted it with Krylon. Came out exceptionally well.

A repro wheel is $300, sending yours off for restoring is at least that.

I did mine as I was working on my cab interior. Waiting on paint to dry, or body filler, or seam sealer to dry, I would do 3 or 4 of the cracks on my wheel, put it aside for a few days, and then do some more. I am really satisfied with how well it came out.

Mike


Mike

1951 3100 5 window
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Will be doing mine soon--it is now light gray like the interior, want to do black like yours what type black did you use? Satin? Thanks Bill

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I used JB Weld in the cracks, then used spray paint made for appliances from the local ACE Hardware. Mine is gloss black, the appliance paint is a epoxy type and has held up well.

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I did a steering wheel 35 years ago by opening all of the small crack with a hack saw blade. Then filled them with Bondo, sanded smooth and painted it with rattle can spray paint and it still looks good!

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1956 8400 Wrecker w/Holmes 525
1956 9200 Tractor w/Allison Automatic
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1953 Willys M38A1 Fire Jeep
1978 Jeep CJ-5 Navy Jeep
1984 Jeep CJ7
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I like Mike's idea for using Bondo. It is about the same density of the original steering wheel, has great adhesive characteristics on clean surfaces, and has some flex to it. The problem that I have had with J B weld is that it is extremely hard, making feathering it in with the steering wheel difficult and it cracked soon after a few musclebound turns of the wheel.
I'll be giving Bondo a go on the next one I do.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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My wheel wasn't cracked, but the finish had worn off, so my hands got black whenever I drove it. I cleaned it up good and gave it a couple coats with a rattle can. Not sure what I used without going out there and looking, but I believe it was Rustoleum. I only did it last year, but so far it's still looking great.


Rich
1947 Loadmaster
1947 Chev. Loadmaster
1959 Chev. Viking 40

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Originally Posted by 52Carl
I like Mike's idea for using Bondo. It is about the same density of the original steering wheel, has great adhesive characteristics on clean surfaces, and has some flex to it. The problem that I have had with J B weld is that it is extremely hard, making feathering it in with the steering wheel difficult and it cracked soon after a few musclebound turns of the wheel.
I'll be giving Bondo a go on the next one I do.

I didn't like the idea of a very hard product like JB weld or bondo serving as the filler in the cracks/gaps when I did mine.
I reasoned the vibration and flex would just repeat where the rigid meets the flexible.

I used 3M panel adhesive instead.
It is much closer to the rubberized material I found while opening up the cracks on mine.
It sands much more like the original material.


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I have used the 3M panel adhesive on the beltline pinch weld on the back of my cab and it is a great product, but man is that stuff expensive.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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To true.
the 4oz tubes are not bad tho. plus they have screw on caps for individual mix like JB weld, as opposed to the side by side special gun types in the larger sizes.
But that stuff sticks!


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Were do you find the 4 oz tubes?


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Posts: 1,901
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Sorry I missed the ?...
I used these... 2oz tubes
2oz tubes of 3M panel bond adhesive


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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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That product looks interesting, CASO.

How sandable is it?

Thanks,

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Sands like the steering wheel...
I found it very sand able. Balsam grade softwood comes to mind.
link to my steering wheel photos


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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Looks real good, CASO

Nice pictures - thanks for posting them.

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CASO, I like the idea that 3M is rubberized. When I did my wheel a few years ago I think I used JB and it was difficult to sand. Time will tell if it starts to crack.

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Thanks Guy's.
53- I knew I wasn't into sanding down JB weld so started looking for options from my shelf of leftovers. I am curious how it compares over time but expect to remain in mystery about that.
You think folks will post if their repairs start to develop new cracks?


Give me ambiguity
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