The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop New floorboards

Hello, I haven't been here in a while. Got a computer out in the garage now and am getting re-modivated to finish my truck again. My floorboards weren't too bad, but thin in some areas. I found some excellent replacements, so I cut/chiseled the old ones out. I plan on welding them in, although I am a little weak in this area. Should I prep the mounting area with por-15, use polyurethane calking and after making some bare metal spots just spot weld them in? Is welding necessary? The poly calking I use is like elephant skin when it hardens and really hold good. Maybe use rivets?? I have searched but could find no post covering this. Any help you can give me will be helpful.. I am kind of stuck as to what would be the best/right way. Thanks in advance. (pictures available)

ChuckB
'50 Chevy 3100 1/2 ton

Welding is best. Strongest in the long run and will eliminate galvanic corrosion. Seal them up good after with por15 as it will wick into the voids. Top coat the por15 paint or liner for more protction. Your not worried about UV protection, but protection from damage. Pop rivits have flex and strenght issues and will cause you problems in the long run in Florida's humid clime.

I would like to second rev383 ... welding is best. If you don't feel strong in welding area just get a couple of old pieces with the same thickness. If you are mig welding just get your wire speed and temperature set, the rest is all in the wrist.

I did the POR-15 before laying down the new patch panels. Then I used seam sealer on all of the joints.

Thanks for the info. I kind of knew that welding was the only way to go. I have a Lincoln Pro-Mig 135 and some days Im good and the others, I really suck I guess I need to spend some more time on my set up and get some practice in.

chev235: you mean you welded right on top of the por-15?

ChuckB
'50 Chevy 3100 1/2 ton

I painted everything I could with POR-15. I then ground the paint off where I was welding. Then I painted over everything again. A better way would be to get weldable primer. I have never used it and I am way over budget so I am trying to cut some corners.

To be quite honest my welds didn't look so good but nothing a little grinding, bondo and paint can't fix. Not to mention the floor will have carpet or rubber over it anyway.

Good Luck!

i would have to agree with every one on the welding and the weld through zinc primer but if a guy can get a nice tigh fit with the new panels the new structural body glues work great

As a small BUT Very BIG Addition PLEEEASE
Use a respirator welding
I Know it Sucks with a helmet and all BUT it sure beats the alternatives of The Big Dirt Knap or an Iron Lung for the REST of Your Life
Any weld thru primer ESPECIALLY 1 with zinc in it is GONNA give off POISONOUS GASSES when Burned
Use the search button to get more info on this Critical Subject
Regards AND Stay Safe Steve Sr.

Thanks everyone for the info

ChuckB

I have been following this topic. I have a 65 stepside with some floorboard that are patched. I spend a great deal of time around all sorts of welding and have done so for over 30 years.

I have to convey a few personal experiences with smoke from welding. I was once overcome and became very ill after briefly inhaling or sniffing smoke from a piece of galvanized pipe being welded up wind from me. I was 20' away from it and it choked me and layed me up in bed for a few days. If you have to weld anything galvanized or zinc primed, make sure to have a fan blowing this smoke away from you.

The other, almost deadly experience I had involved yet another supervision of a welder when his sparks set a piece of carpet foam on fire and left if smoldering. This smoke really choked me. I thought nothing of it but the next day I began to experience shortness of breath and a week later was diagnosed with chemical burns in both lungs. Lost about 75% of my lung capacity and went through 6 weeks of treatment before it began to improve.

SO TAKE MY ADVICE STAY OUT OF ALL THAT SMOKE.

SHOR
O BLUE
[email protected]

Thanks for the good advice, shor.

I almost caught my shop on fire from a stray spark a few weeks ago. I was actually using my table saw and had nicked a nail with the blade. I hadn't cleaned out the dust in the cabinet for a while, and it had about an inch of sawdust in the bottom. I went in the house for a few minutes and when I came back the smoke was thick blue. The spark had started a smoldering fire in the cabinet of the saw and I almost lost a perfectly good shop, not to mention a perfectly good Rockwell Unisaw. The concrete underneath was quite scorched.