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#121417 07/28/2006 3:01 AM
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 3
6
Junior Member
Junior Member
6 Offline
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 3
Hi,

Have any of you guys used Por15 on your frames? I'm thinking of using it on my '67 c-10 shortbed frame, and I am wondering how easy it is to use and if it works well. Any tips or comments will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
BC

#121418 07/28/2006 3:30 AM
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,031
C
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
C Offline
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,031
I have used por 15
our truck IS a daily driver, I have por 15'd the straight axle,
several dozen small bits, inner fenders,
under side of my running boards
and front bumper apron, grill support,
radiator frame, brake bits, rods, tranny support mount,
under bed gas tank and brackets,
accelerator bell crank plate, brackets,
engine supports and the frame. no springs or rear axle.
POR 15 DOES NOT LIKE SUNLIGHT!! it turns
a milky shade, so make sure the bits you paint are not in
the sun and are hidden by other parts. ie inner fenders, frame, small
under or in cab bits. if the parts
you do paint are in sunlight (like my tow hitch and bumper brackets)
you must recoat /cover (the por 15 so
no sun hits it) them w/ another paint, ie rustolium or any paint shop paint.
I used cheap brushes (1/2'', 1'', 2'') cause we don't care if bits of bristles
show in the paint, otherwise you will spend some time picking bristle out
of the paint using tweezers, tons of money buying expensive
brushes, or sand a lot and repaint. I throw the brushes away and get
another one.
do a search on this site !! I painted directly over sand/bead blasted parts
w/o metal ready. the por 15 folks say you should use metal
ready. to me that's more money I don't have. I guess I'll find
out some day. If you recoat after you have painted a part and
you missed a small spot the touch up will usually NOT blend back
in as many other paints do.
you should high pressure spray the parts. they must be clean
marine clear is used to get rid of grease.
for that matter so is any OVEN cleaner,
cans and cans of the stuff, scrape,
brush and scrape again, wash off. apply again, wash that off.
you will then should/have to use por 15 metal ready,
wash off that after it sits a while.
the bits must be 100% dry. brush on por 15 in semi or gloss black. if you
can use the whole can at one paint session do so right out of the can.
if not and you get por 15 on the rim of the can, use
cellophane first b4 covering w/ the top.
you won't be able to get the top off again, they say. por 15 folks want
you to apply two coats, sometimes i do.... sometimes i don't.
read ... read this:
http://www.por15.com/SUPPORT/POR15FAQ/POR15TECHNICALINFO/tabid/178/Default.aspx
they say por 15 likes rusty bits??? whatever that means.....

if you spray por 15
YOU MUST USE THE VERY BEST, TOP OF THE LINE MASK !!!!
or else you will be visiting the hospital.
rear B-4 you work w/ this stuff.
but it's kinda like liquid powder coat.
it's self leveling to an extent and turns
out smooth. use above 65 degrees.
but i have in 50 degrees and it
comes out ok. be methodical about
what you do, go slow, paint in one direction, try and use two
coats and not put on one thick coat, it runs so always double check and rebrush
those areas shortly after you applied the coat. you can paint over
por 15 w/ por 15.
read the directions or call the
por 15 people, they can answer all your questions.


Jim & Caroline
The highway is for gamblers, better use your good sense."
Gooday-that's my 1¢ answer due to the lousy economy ~ cause I ain't got - no . mo . doe

Every Shaver | Now Can Snore | Six More Minutes | Than Before ... | Half A Pound for Half a Dollar | Spread On Thin | Above the Collar || BURMA-SHAVE
#121419 07/28/2006 6:26 AM
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 3
6
Junior Member
Junior Member
6 Offline
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 3
Thanks Caroline and Jim,
I appreciate your reply and the link, the info will help me a lot.

Take care,
BC

#121420 07/28/2006 6:01 PM
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
Ditto that on the respirator, I know from personal experience that it's very bad if you get it in your lungs.


Bill Burmeister
#121421 07/28/2006 9:15 PM
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,440
Moderator - The Electrical Bay
Moderator - The Electrical Bay
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,440
I used Por-15 on my frame and under the cab... looks and is holding up well after 5 years.


Another quality post.
Real Trucks Rattle
HELP! The Paranoids are after me!
#121422 07/30/2006 3:26 AM
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 204
C
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
C Offline
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 204
I just applied POR-15 to my engine block and underneath my dash and in the cowl areas. It applied really nice and looks awesome. It came recommended from about 10 local people so I felt that was enough to believe before I applied it.

#121423 07/31/2006 3:10 AM
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,440
Moderator - The Electrical Bay
Moderator - The Electrical Bay
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,440
I'm in trouble.. i just ordered 4 quarts! The wife is going to scalp me when she sees the bill... oh well, i work, she doesnt.

I'm going to treat the inside and underside of my cab, doors and hood.


Another quality post.
Real Trucks Rattle
HELP! The Paranoids are after me!
#121424 08/04/2006 11:42 AM
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 71
K
Member
Member
K Offline
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 71
The regular POR-15 will change color in sunlight, but it can be overcoated with another POR-15 product - I think it's called "chassis-black" or "chassis-coat", which is not UV sensitive

#121425 08/05/2006 1:33 AM
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
There's "Chassis Coat Black" and "Black Coat". The difference is the glossiness of the finish. Chassis coat is a satin finish, Black coat is gloss. The bumpers on my '55 are done with Chassis coat black.


Bill Burmeister
#121426 08/07/2006 1:50 AM
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 123
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 123
I might add.. After the por15 dries to the touch (1 hr or so) I then take some glossy black rustolem in the can and put on a top coat.. I do this on the small pieces.. works great.

ChuckB


Chuck

1950 Chevy 3100 Deluxe Cab
A few Harleys and '76 Triumph Bonneville

#121427 08/10/2006 1:59 AM
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 123
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 123
Also I take a small can of por-15 and punch a hole in the center of the top and seal it with a #12 sheetmetal screw. When I need to paint something I just remove the screw and drip some out. The curved outside bottom of a beer can works great.. I then reseal it with the screw and put in my shop fridge.. one can last a long, long time. Remember.. a little goes a long way.

ChuckB


Chuck

1950 Chevy 3100 Deluxe Cab
A few Harleys and '76 Triumph Bonneville

#121428 08/11/2006 8:44 PM
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 59
J
Member
Member
J Offline
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 59
I used POR-15 to paint my frame about 4 years ago and it is holding up well. But I have to say it wasn't a very pleasant experience. If you get it on you (and you will), plan on wearing it around for a few weeks. I couldn't find anything short of a wire brush that would get it of your skin.

I've since started using a product called ZeroRust . So far, it appears to hold just as well as POR-15. It doesn't have the dangerous chemicals and it COMES OFF YOUR SKIN.


72 Sierra Grande - Maych

Forget about "do it right the first time". Do it wrong the first time to learn how, then do it right the second time.
#121429 08/13/2006 4:41 AM
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,440
Moderator - The Electrical Bay
Moderator - The Electrical Bay
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,440
Johnnyp... your 'bolt is looking good..

I had the same experience with the POR15... i used a respirator too, even tho i was using a paint brush.


Another quality post.
Real Trucks Rattle
HELP! The Paranoids are after me!

Moderated by  klhansen 

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