The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop toeboard/floor panels

I noticed on the LMC Truck website, they offer a left side and right side toe board/floor panel combo. My 53 6400 needs a toe board and both floor panels and was concidering purchasing a full toeboard and left and right floor panels-total of 3 pieces. LMC Truck would make it 2 pieces. Has anyone done anything similar to this? If so, is it just as strong in the middle where the 2 pieces come together? Sounds like it would be a little easier.

Thanks, Ron

The one piece floor/toeboards don't go all the way up to the corner of the firewall...They're about 3 inches short at the top. If the rot is lower than that you can get away with them. I used them and was happy with the results. I put 3/4" angle iron strips along the floor opening and lap welded the new and old toeboards at the rib for extra strength. Don't forget to brace it. Here's a pic:

http://community.webshots.com/photo/377692314/1377796177023244788bkOvBW

Curt B.

Wow Curt...Very nice job...well done. That's pretty much exactly what I would like to accomplish with my truck. Did all the other new panels, as far as the inner to outer cowl, outer cowls, etc... match up OK? Also, in which sequence did you perform all of your replacements? Did you do the floor first and go from there for the rest?

Thanks for the reply!
Ron

Mummdogg - Had a similiar problem with my 48 and solved it in a similiar manner. One side - passenger side - needed new inner cowls and floor panels with some work needed in the corner so we purchased the toe/floor piece and welded it in. The drive side was similiar but didn't need any work above the joint where the two meet so we cut out the area about two inches up to save the orginal holes and metal as much as possible. Put in a new inner cowl on the drivers side also. Had a little problem with the vent lever on the driver's side. When we were done it worked out great. Everything matched up fine and the seams are much stronger. Even squared the cab back up when we took out the sag from the rusted out corners where the cowls and floor meet. We did the outer cowls first then the floor and inners next.

You might want to check around though I think some catalogs have a variety of different parts and different prices. May find something that fits your needs better.

Higgin - didn't support the welds with anything but may have to go back and do that. I like the idea.

Thanks for the compliments. The order I did mine may not be the best for every application but it worked well for me. First I put 2 braces from the firewall to the seat frame and then replaced panels one side and one piece at a time in this order: 1.lower pillar. 2. outer cowl. 3. inner to outer. 4. inner panels. After that I cut the floor along the seat frame and then put it back down on the frame, bolted up the rear cab mounts and cut out the floors and toeboard . Then I mounted the doors and used the front cab mounting bolts and the transmission cover bolts as guides to position the floorpans. Then I replaced the floors/toeboard, front supports, rockers and cab corners. You could do the floors first if you want as I’m sure many have. Before welding put it together with screws, small bolts, or rivets and be sure of the following: 1. Doors fit with 3/16” minimum gap. 2. Front cab mounting bolts will go thru the floor pan, cab support and frame holes. 3. Brake and clutch pedal arms can move without rubbing. 4. Only cut away what you have to. There’s a few more things to watch for that I don’t remember right now but if you don’t cut away too much at once you should be ok. All my panels were nice except for the inner cowls (kick panels) and the inner to outers. I don’t think anybody makes those 2 pieces that fit properly. You have to shape those yourself. Good luck and have fun.

Curt B.

When replacing the outer cowls how much old metal do you have to remove to make them fit?

Also what did you use to cut out the old metal?

Would a 110v mig welder do the job for the welding?

I removed the complete outer cowls by removing the lead and then drilling out the spotwelds until I could slip the old ones out. Gentle prying will make the old spotwelds visible. Then jam the new ones under there and hammer down the old cowl and weld. The only tool I really used on the outer cowls was a 5/16" short carbide drill but I made fastest work on panel cutting with a 4 1/2" angle grinder with 1/16" disc. For small areas I like a 90 deg. die grinder with a 1/32" disc. I used a Lincoln 110v 88 amp welder with .025" wire with co2/argon gas. Even with a long extension cord it worked great. The spotwelds will be in a random pattern so I don't think they're in the same place on any 2 trucks but here you can see where I drilled to get out my outer cowls.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/377692314/1377795871023244788gotDyU

Thank you for the infomation. Not to mention your picture is worth a thousand words to me.

A couple more questions ...

How did you remove the lead?

Did you brace the cab up when you replaced the floor boards and toe panels?

Start by drilling into the lead a little bit and then tilt the drill at 30 to 45 degrees and move along with slow sideways motion. At that angle it will dig out the lead without drilling into the steel. Heat is another method but I found no need for it. If you look at the pic in my first post on this thread you will notice a flatbar which is bolted to the firewall and is resting on the framerail. There is a dimension in the shop manual which specifies the distance between the floorpan and the framerail. That flatbar maintains that distance. Put one on each side. That flatbar idea came courtesy of "Chuck the Truck" whose pictures I studied when taking mine apart.

Curt...I'm finding out your pics are very helpful with what I'm doing on my truck. I've been checking numerous vendors for prices on sheet metal and some catalogs mention "1st" and "2nd" with the part descriptions. I'm guessing it means years. Do you know what that applies too? My truck is a 53 series 6400. I know most cab replacement parts are the same for my truck as lighter duty trucks, but I was wondering if the "1st" and "2nd" applies to my truck.
Thanks to all for the feedback!

The first and second refers to 1955 trucks which were produced in the advance design style and then the new task force style sometime midyear. Your's would be a "1 st".