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Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 5
F
New Guy
New Guy
F Offline
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 5
While pulling distributer the nut clamping the vacuum
advance went down the distributer housing.
while trying to retrieve it it fell into the rear galley. I'm pretty sure I heard it hit the side of the oil pan and fell into the bottom.
Should I pull pan or is it relatively safe in the bottom of pan?

1942 6 cyl 216ci engine

What an idiot?

Any comments would be appreciated.

Thanks

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,870
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,870
Pull the oil pan drain plug and fish around the bottom of the pan through the hole with a flexible magnet. Chances are you'll get the nut out that way. If the nut is in one of the splash-oiler troughs it can do some damage to a rod dipper the first time the crankshaft turns.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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C
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,843
Of course, pull the pan. Why take the chance assuming anything?


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,303
5
Renaissance Man
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Get one of those really strong little magnets and try to coax the nut close to the drain plug from the outside on the bottom of the pan. It should drag the nut toward the drain hole. You can test the procedure on a scrap piece of sheet metal and a similar sized nut.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 31
H
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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If you have by chance access to one of those endoscopic cameras you might give it a try down the distributor hole or if that doesn't work out through the drain plug hole. If in the end you don't succeed you can pull the pan anyway. Not much more to lose than some time if it doesn't work out that way.

Joined: Aug 2012
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V
Shop Shark
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Joined: Aug 2012
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I was able to R&R the oil pan on my 49 216, in truck, without any clearance problems. It weighs more than you think but I done it laying on my back underneath. I'm unsure if the 42 has the same clearances.
If you haven't dropped the pan before it is a good time to do so and give the innards a good look-see. Plastigauging the bearings will tell you how much life you have left in it. May even still have some main bearing shims you could remove to gain more oil pressure.

All that said, fishing around with a long handles magnet and/or one of those mini endoscopes "may" save you a lot of work.

Good luck
Dave

Joined: Jan 2002
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C
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Good excuse to clean the insides of the pan. Maybe you'll find the missing wedding ring of the previous owner's wife? You never know.


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 5
F
New Guy
New Guy
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Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 5
sorry for the late reply. removed pan found nut and many other items. after a little thought I surmised that they were 4 fuel pump arms. this must be a usual occurrence and that the pan had probably not been pulled in years if ever. Didn't think of plastic gauging bearings. I could use some more oil pressure. How much pressure does an old "42" 215 run anyway?

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,870
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Posts: 29,870
A 216 does not have pressurized oil to the rods, so tightening up the clearance there doesn't help oil pressure. It will make the engine run quieter, however. Shoot for .0015"-.002" by removing shims between the rod and cap, and checking the clearance with Plastigauge or shim stock between the rod cap and the crankshaft.

Pulling shims between the main bearing caps and the block will increase oil pressure by minimizing the leakage past the bearings. Again, try for .002" or less if possible. The cam bearings are another story- - - -wear and oil pressure loss there cannot be corrected with shims.

If you have 15 PSI or so at cruise speed with a warmed-up engine, be happy. Some 216's show virtually no oil pressure at hot idle and still run pretty well.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
My 1951 216 runs well under 15 lbs on the highway and almost zero at idle. It hasn't really changed in 35,000 miles of driving. The main bearings are new and are adjusted to minimum clearance. I think the cam bearings are quite worn. My 38 oil pressure is off the scale when cold,
over 15 lbs when cruising and not much below 7 at idle. So these old 216s have vitals that vary widely.

As far as adjusting the rods, if you still have the pan off it is a good idea. When they become too loose they can wear out very quickly.


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1951 1 Ton Completed


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