The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop methods, products, and pricing

hey guys I got a few questions. I just got the body off my '62 stepside and not too far from sandblasting the frame.

1. what would you recommend; por15 or zero rust?

2. Where can I find these products and how much are they?

3. Other than these two, what other product would you recommend for putting on the frame?

4. What steps are required to get the best and longest lasting results?

Thanks guys. If these Q's have been answered elsewhere please point me to them. Thanks.

If it will help you evaluate the 2, check out http://www.autobodystore.com/images/boattest.jpg. Both products on the same boat for 16 months.... Len used to sell POR, now sells Zero Rust.....

thanks.

from what i read on the site here are the steps.

- blast to bare metal
- apply rust inhibitor (phosphoric acid ) and dry
- seal
- prime
- paint?

are these the right steps or no? what kind of primer would be best? should i seal after painting?

For a daily driver, as you state in your gallery post, I would do the following. Anything more might look better but would be better for a show truck.

1. Zero Rust - cost less, easier to apply, easier to make repairs should it get damaged.
2. http://www.raybuck.com Best prices and delivery.
3. Chassis coat from Eastwoods (more than ZR but less than POR)
4. For ZR I would buy a quart of the black and a quart of their Crystal Clear and apply using a HVLP paint gun. I would get a couple of cans of their aeresol also for small parts.
Apply only after completing all hot work and grinding is completed but before any suspension assembly is performed.

I think the following is the process. Someone will correct me if I'm out of order.

First, check the frame for square and have it straightened if appropriate.

Then, make any modifications to the frame you plan on making( c-motch, mount plates, etc..)

Then:

1- Strip to bare metal (sandblast, wire brush, sand)
2- Powder coat OR:

2- Etching primer
3- wipe down
4- primer
5- scuff sand (some say its optional)
6- wax & grease remover
7- tack rag
8- paint (1+coats, scuff/sand between coats)

Stevie, as someone who has gone through this, you will find many opinions on how the best way to go is. This is just another opinion. There are two major schools of thought out there on painting the frame. There are the many coats of primer and paint folks and there are the newer encapsulating folks. The latter being ZeroRust, POR15, Eastwood Encapsulating, etc. If you are heading for show truck, sandblast, epoxy primer, paint is the route to go. This will look the best, but is most time comsuming and expensive. If driver, like my fifty, then I would look at Zero Rust. I only say this because I did my research and went with it. Prep can be as minimal as wire brush and prep wash. It can be applied with a brush or sprayed. Two coats and you are done, unless you want to add clear coat. Recent survey I saw on this site showed Zero Rust favored over POR15, but it is a matter of preference. Zero Rust is certainly cheaper and less nasty to work with. I can buy Zero Rust at a local auto paint store. I will tell you if I made the right decision in about 5 to 10 years. Good luck,
Steve O

Oops, I forgot about the powdercoat folks. I did my wheels in powdercoat and certainly like the results. I assumed, without checking, that the cost of powdercoating frame was out of my budget. (Ha, it makes me laugh to think that the term "budget" still applies to this resto.)

POR-15 has isocyanates, which i understand can be nasty to your lungs!! Read the MSDS sheets before buying. Just got some ZeroRust today, 4 day delivery from Wisc. to Tx, and it's much cheaper, about 16 a quart!

has anyone used Zero rust on body panels before? can you prime and paint over it with decent results?

Have you seen this product review we did some time ago?

Peggy

I have no experience with Zero Rust, but I have used POR-15 and can tell you first hand that getting it in your lungs sucks royally. I did a cab corner and thought "It's just a small job, I don't need to get my painting gear out". WRONG!!!
I was sick as a dog for the next 3 days. I'd say whatever you use wear the proper safety gear- at minimum a properly rated paint mask and safety glasses.

I've used Zero Rust and am quite happy with everything about it

Bill

I used a epoxy primer 2 coats and a gloss black acrylic enamel. I like the results but if I did again I would use a black primer. It would have covered better in tight areas. Good luck. Pics below
Dan
http://community.webshots.com/photo/512683224/2951450480071274430qeOjmO

would it be safe, or advisable, to use the prep step on the frame, before painting with ZeroRust, or just pressure wash and wire brush it before painting?

i have used POR 15 on my whole truck and all that i wore was a white little filter mask and normal clothes I did it outside and i had no problems with breathing it and i used a roller paintbrushes and toothbrushes i personally think it is the way to go because it can be applied very easily and it is a very good rust eater and inhibitor and also very strong.

i didnt use it on anything that showed on the truck. only inner fenders and under truck areas.

They you are d*mn lucky. POR 15 contains isocyanates, which are EXTREMELY dangerous. You should only use products that contain isocyanates while wearing an air supplied respirator.

Here is the Material Safety Data Sheet for POR-15

After I posted, I read the prep step instructions on Zerorust's web site, interesting and simple way to prep metal for painting with ZeroRust.

I'm getting ready to start my frame soon and I had the same question.After reading the msds on the por15 I'm not gonna touch the stuff.Read the special precautions and storage sections too.Seems the stuff has a pretty short and shakey shelf life.I'm gonna check out the zerorust.good question,good info.thanks for posting.
http://community.webshots.com/mypho...mp;albumID=551424330&security=ekZMUw

It lasts a long time if you dont leave it open and if you take care of it. i had no trouble with por 15 you just cant paint it on in a small little closed area do it out in the open outside and you will be fine it sure does go on easy and fast and is hard as a rock when dry it looks nice but do what you want.

I just ordered 2 gallons of zerorust for my truck. .Red oxide and black,got some of that prep-stuff too.It said I could thin it 15-20%with xylene,lacquer thinner,acetone,or acrylic enamel reducer.My buddy gave me a brand new hlvp spray gun yesterday,it has a 1.7 nozzle.what kind of thinner should I use and will this gun be allright or should I get another?thanks

Good to know. I used POR15 on a 67 Cutlass,but would not spray it because of the hazards. Shelf life after opening is a problem. The paint seal between the can and lid was stronger that the can. When I started this current 38 project I bought some small cans of POR15 for the critical areas and primer and Van Sickle enamel (with rust Arrestor???) for the out of site areas. I'll give this Zero Rust a try. We tried a lot of stuff on gensets and boilers we had peirside throughout the Navy and good old Rustoleum worked darn near the best. The red oxide primer has fish oil in it! We worked a lot with the engineers at the civil engineeering command and they found nothing better. Primed, coated with a flat (high solids count) and then a top coat of shiney stuff.

I too prefer ZeroRust over POR-15. I've used both but the POR-15 is just too nasty to deal with.

However, I don't agree with the remarks that you shouldn't use it if your headed to the car show. I painted my frame with POR-15 (before I knew better) and I painted the bottom of the cab, the bottom of the bed, and the engine compartment with ZeroRust. And I have taken home many trophy\'s from the car shows I've entered. Oh sure, if you plan on taking it to Pebble Beach or some other Concours d'Elegance show, then brushing on a coat of ZeroRust isn't going to get it. But for the local car shows like most of us go to it will do just fine.

so let me ask the majority. zero rust is the batter and sfaer product?

captian_napalm, I don't know if it's better but it's just a good in my experience and it's much safer and easier on the painter.