The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
2 members (Hotrod Lincoln, klhansen), 119 guests, and 2 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,127
Posts1,056,357
Members48,441
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#1207957 03/11/2017 1:20 PM
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 306
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 306
Looking to acquire a rotisserie for my 53 Suburban. Not real sure of the one to look for or the method to mount it on the rotisserie. Body will be off the frame from the firewall & back. Looking for suggestions from those that have been here. All help appreciated.

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
I put my Suburban body on 6x6 rails and/or cross members.

No rotation, but we could easily reach/attack every inch of it.

Be careful with any "suspension techniques" - the cab/body does not flex. There are lead-soldered joints that will crack/break under stress. Even a two-end suspension could be too much joint stress.

Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 306
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 306
"Here Are My Intentions" Unless the Suburban guy's talk me out of it. Will it work?? *** Plan on putting the body on a rotisserie so I can get the underside sand blasted cleaned and then get a good undercoating applied. I have the plywood floor completely out so everything can get sand blasted. ** Then remove from rotisserie and place on a dolly that will support the body in all four places as it would be sitting on the frame. At this time body work and paint can be accomplished. My thoughts are if any of the leaded joints crack {a couple already have cracks} they could be corrected with the body work. ** Looking for the thoughts of the Suburban guy's or anyone else that might want to join in.

Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 323
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
G Offline
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 323
I raised my 37 panel up high with two camper jacks ( the old style ) with a wooden beam through the doors. In the rear I used a large roll around bumper jack. Vary solid. Up about 3'.left the floor in.The floor is structurel. I'd be afraid of the body collapsing. I guess you could weld in a bunch temporary braceing.
I may be wrong never used a rotisserie. That's my 2 cents. Someone with more experience will chime in.




These old bolts are in my blood. Hard thing is focusing on just one.

1937 Chevy 1/2 ton panel
1953 GMC 2 ton. future car hauler

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
B
Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
B Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
A faux luxury, not a necessity. Don't know if you are taking axles off the frame. Anyway there are very few places you can't blast or coat while on frame. The frame can be raised and supported high enough with body mounted to it, then lift body a hair to get under body mounts if that bothers you. Cherry pickers help, 6x6's help, jacks help. If you want to build a one time, expensive, rotisserie, it's doable also. Wherever it attaches will be uncoated also smile.

Many people use two engine stands to create the spin axis and build from there.

VW busses are repaired using two hoops attached to the body. Then they roll it over to desired spot.

With a rotisserie, I would be very careful about body twist/distortion/damage with the rear floor, all doors and frame gone!!!!!

With the wood floor out, there really is not a whole lot to blast/coat underneath. Just the front floor and the rear sill....maybe some floor joists. Easy access to those. I don't consider inside of body panels as underneath. You can make that decision. It seems that most of that is accessible by standing between the joist/cross members. Provided you agree that the only reason for a rotisserie is for underneath, I say nyet.

It is not advisable to sandblast/blast the differential. You can not keep the media out. It may cause damage inside. Gears, shims, bushings, bearings, precision shafts, seals...You will never get it all out....and it is not necessary.
Also all the greasy stuff can not be blasted. Someone will have to do hands on. Soak, brush, wire wheel, gasoline, degreaser, scrape, chisel, needler.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,281
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,281
After you are done blasting/priming/painting the underside by whatever method you choose to use, I would suggest that you put the body back on the frame and make sure that all of your body-to-frame spacing measurements are to specs prior to body work.
It would be a monumental task to create a "stand" which would duplicate the frame. It is crucial to have the frame under the body to perform any body work, as there is a huge probability that there will be distortion from it. Just by removing that huge structure from the frame will likely result in some distortion that you won't be able to detect until you go to put it on the frame.
Carl

Last edited by 52Carl; 03/13/2017 12:25 AM.

1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 793
T
Bondo Artiste
Bondo Artiste
T Offline
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 793
I'm with the rest of these guys, not enough gain to flip the hippo over to get to her bottom verses the risk of the leaded seams and change of twisting the body door opening gaps. I put my burb body on a home made dolly made of 6x6's and large caster wheels from tractor supply company. Even after bolting it soundly to the dolly once I put the body back on the frame the door openings and door alignment changed enough to where we had to go back and do some tweaking and body work. And we had already spent a ton of time playing with gaps ect prior to putting the body back on the frame. Live and learn......


~ Phillip
1949 GMC Suburban - 10 year project
1952 Pontiac Chieftain Convertible straight 8 hydramatic
1945 GMC half ton truck - Driver- Sold 9-15-25
1946 Chevy COE - SOLD 1-5-26 BUH BYE CHEVY!
1959 GMC Half ton long bed NAPCO
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 96
A
'Bolter
'Bolter
A Offline
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 96
I built my own rotisserie. Combo of plans bought on eBay. My son has body business and he will get a lot of use of it, so went ahead and built it. My 52 GMC was in very good shape, just some rust in the floor of the cab. Had a vent on the roof (Army ambulance). All I can say is, it makes work so much easier on the rotisserie. Scraping undercoater off the floor, body work on the roof, welding horizontal instead of vertical or overhead, not to mention painting that "hippo" as mentioned. Roll that thing all around the shop, back and forth to the paint booth. Nice. We're primed (#3)and ready to wet sand and paint. And herculiner the bottom, wheel wells, firewall, etc. Of course, we haven't fitted the doors yet so I may rethink if things have moved around a bit. No seams cracked that we saw. I don't have photobucket accnt. Got lots of pic I can email if interested..Just my 2 cents worth. YMMV

azcornman


~ Richard
1952 GMC Army Ambulance
"Building the Dream"
The story begins here in the DITY Gallery
Follow the build in the Project Journals
(If you can't wait, the "final pictures" and details are in Panels & Burbs)
First vehicle-1967 Chevy short bed pickup. Sold when got married frown | 1953 Chevy pickup restored-sold to purchase Toy Hauler trailer | 1964 GMC long bed Pickup 305 big block V/6 bought to restore with son and his 14 yr old son
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
B
Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
B Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
Check out the other rotisserie post in "tool chest"


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 116
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 116
Hi,

I put my 3/4 ton 1938 panel on a rotisserie. Because of its top-heaviness, I could not rotate 360 degrees, but I was able to turn the body to more than 45 degrees each way. It made body work and painting MUCH easier--not sure how I would have been able to do the job without it. I've tried to attach a link to a couple pics, showing how it was done. Hope it works.

Jim


<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s1045.photobucket.com/user/jmmmn/embed/slideshow/1938%20panel%20on%20rotisserie"></iframe>

Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 116
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 116
Sorry, it didn't work. Here's a link that you might be able to open or copy--can't remember how to post pics.

Sorry,
Jim


http://s1045.photobucket.com/user/jmmmn/1938%20panel%20on%20rotisserie/story


Moderated by  MNSmith, Rusty Rod 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0