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Joined: Sep 2016
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Hi all, hope I am right here.

I am planning to make a trip to sweden to attend a big meet this summer (1.000 Miles one direction). I am thoroughly checking out my '54 3100 (all stock as far as I can tell) but I haven't yet driven much more than 200 Miles with it, and the longest roundtrip was about 30 Miles.

What would give you a headache when thinking about a trip that long? Where would you look for weak points? Which spare parts would you take with you (besides of spark plugs, distributor parts, light bulbs, fuses and some electrical wire). What would you put into your toolbox (or stow under the bench in the cab)?

The truck has been equipped with new generator/regulator and the battery was new when I purchased the truck last year. The engine still needs some work (mostly adjustments I hope) which I will adress in the next weeks.

Any suggestions will be highly appreciated,
Helmut

Last edited by Helmut Barth; 03/05/2017 11:08 PM.
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Couple of wire coat hangers. Zip ties, duct tape. I always have a few electrical connectors and a foot or two of wire onboard, a set of wire strippers is nice although a good basic tool kit needs a sharp knife of some kind and one of my personal favorites is an adjustable wrench, also known in the USA as a Crescent wrench, except the Crescent brand has greatly deteriorated over the years and better adjustable wrenches can be had...oh well, forgive the Crescent rant...

Fan belt. Ignition switch. Also kinda depends on how recently certain components have been changed. Make sure your spare tire is good and you have the proper jack and lugwrench. Radiator hoses, esp if you have one that feels spongy soft anywhere...better yet change those before leaving.

And most importantly a credit card and cell phone.

Last edited by Skooter; 03/05/2017 11:30 PM.

Matthew 6:33

1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55
Dalton Highway survivor (using original 216)
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One more thing, before the big trip arrives take a few progressively longer trips away from home to build confidence and work out the little problems you might uncover close to home rather than 1000 miles away.

Last edited by Skooter; 03/05/2017 11:33 PM.

Matthew 6:33

1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55
Dalton Highway survivor (using original 216)
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You and I are on similar paths, although my trip is only 600 miles one way. Plans are to leave in the next week or so.

Change the fuel filter if you haven't for sure. Unless you've looked one never knows what's in the bottom of the fuel tank that can get stirred up and plug filters. Now that I think about it, carry a spare.

Again, if you haven't already...go completely through the brake system. I know a lot of European countries have very strict inspection requirements compared to the rural states in the USA (my state has zero inspections of any kind). That said you may have either dealt with or will deal with the safety related items such as tires, brakes and suspension details.

Lots more to discuss but sounds like you have a lot of time. As Scooter mentioned, just start driving it.... as often as possible and the weak areas will pop up.

Good Luck, Ron


RonR


1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1964 CJ5
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I'd bring Pumps. Fuel and water and the tools to change them.

Like said, change the fuel filter (and bring another along).


1948 3/4-Ton 5-Window Flatbed Chevrolet

34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
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Thanks for your input. I am now on vacation for 3 weeks, and I will of course use some of the time to work on and drive the truck.

Fuel tank, pipes, pump and filter and even the gas gauge are already worked over, as is the battery charging system. The radiator and heater hoses are new and freshly clamped tight. I'd guess anything wrong here will show up while testing here.
Brakes were done before last years' safety inspection.

Most of the things you mentioned I have had already on the list. I will take the toolbox along, with all wrenches (even adjustable ones of 3 sizes), sockets, a hammer, a set of pliers, screw drivers of different size, knife, zip ties, simple multimeter, wire tester, jumper wire with crocodile clamps, feeler gauge, cordless tool, drilling and screwing bits.

What I had not on the list were those
- wire coat hangers (I've no idea what for, or if a spool of stiff wire will do as well?),
- the ignition switch (mine works well, but the lock is, as all other locks at the truck, a bit worn)
- and the water pump (will read the shop manual closely to check for what is needed).

What I have on list not mentioned yet: A strip of bicycle tube, a piece of sheet metal, a set of nuts, washers and bolts of different sizes.

I do not own a spare tire or wheel and there is no provision on the car for holding one. I wasn't much concerned about that, because the trip will be most of the time near cities and villages and all of the time on paved roads. In addition I haven't had a flat tire in the last 20 years.

As mentioned above, some of the locks are a bit of a concern to me, and I am not sure what I will do about them, if I can't replace them in time. Gas cap is new, and glove box lock unnecessary but door and ignition I think I will have to change.

Since I haven't driven the truck in rain I don't know if the window seals are leaking or if humidity will give any problems with electrical equipment. I hopefully find out in the next weeks that all is well (or what to do)

Thanks again, Helmut

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Skooter - I am curious as to the purpose of the wire coat hangers?



1950 3100 5 Window
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Bolter
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Tying up stuff that has broken loose, ie; exhaust pipes.


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)

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Originally Posted by Bruce W.
Skooter - I am curious as to the purpose of the wire coat hangers?

Not Skooter but bet I can answer...every country boy knows coat hangers are an indispensable roadside repair requirement. Fix broken exhaust system hangers, tie on parts damaged due to unintended contact, and on and on.

Yep, I guess a roll of wire would be an acceptable substitute. smile

Added in edit: Another coat hanger use, and one I've done many times.....be the Hero when you whip out your trusty coat hanger and straighten it out, study the situation carefully, craft strategic bends, then with great confidence and skill unlock the car door for the beautiful lady that's locked her key in the ignition, or with today's cars and systems left her purse in the car after manually locking the door.

As the sun sets, casting quite shadows across the prairie you accept the ladies grateful lingering kiss of application, then looking down while making figure eights in the dirt with the toe of you boot say "Shoot Ma'am, weren't nothing"

Well, that's how it plays out in my mind anyway.

Last edited by moparguy; 03/06/2017 8:00 PM.

RonR


1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1964 CJ5
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Yep, coat hangers are good stiff wire that can be used for lots of things. I dropped a new rebuilt generator once during install. Hit the asphalt and broke the back bracket off...nothing to bolt the rear of the generator to/with. That left the front two brackets on the generator as the only way to bolt to the truck. So, wrapped the wire from outer front bracket around exhaust manifold good and tight, then put some kinks in it with a big pair of pliers to tighten even more.

It held the generator/pulley tight for many thousands of miles, worked just as well as having all three bolt mounting points.

Another time the muffler bracket broke loose during the Alaska drive, so used a hose clamp (add several sizes of those to your list as well) and coat hanger wire to hold it up, again for many thousands of miles.

My dad used it to wire up repairs to his old Ford exhaust many times when I was a kid.
Never leave home without it. thumbs_up


Matthew 6:33

1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55
Dalton Highway survivor (using original 216)
www.truckwithaheart.com
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"be the Hero when you whip out your trusty coat hanger and straighten it out, study the situation carefully, craft strategic bends, then with great confidence and skill unlock the car door for the beautiful lady that's locked her key in the ignition"

That's exactly what the coat hangers for!

Last edited by Paul_WNC; 03/07/2017 2:40 AM.

1941 Chevy 1 1/2-ton WW2 4x4 dump truck
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Skooter, just clicked on your tagline links....A figurative tip of the hat Sir.

Ron


RonR


1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1964 CJ5
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,441
Bolter
Bolter
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Paul, tried to unlock a current model with a coat hanger?


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)

Joined: Jan 2000
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Originally Posted by moparguy
Skooter, just clicked on your tagline links....A figurative tip of the hat Sir.

Ron
Shelley says awww shucks, it was nuthin'
Thanks much smile


Matthew 6:33

1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55
Dalton Highway survivor (using original 216)
www.truckwithaheart.com
Joined: May 2001
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Extreme Gabster
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Enough of the shuckin' and jivin'.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
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About the only things I might add to the tool and hardware kit would be a small battery pack with air compressor, safety reflectors or flares and a first aid kit.

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Helmut;

Where are you in Germany? I'm in the Kaiserslautern area. If you aren't too far away I'd love to check out your truck. I left my 58 Suburban in storage because I didn't think there would be any way it would pass inspection.

Also, if you don't have a spare tire you better be an ADAC member. That way they can bail you out when you blow a tire.


Thanks

Larry
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Back to the coat hangers. I had an AD truck back in the late 70's I am not sure the year or model (can't remember) but it had a four speed on the floor and the drive shaft was two piece with a carrier bearing. I was going down the interstate about 10 miles from home with a load of suspended ceiling. (this was the 70's). The carrier bearing went out and I was forced to pull over on the high speed side of the interstate next to the dividing wall. I walked the emergency strip and found an old coat hanger. I was able to wire a make shift cradle just behind the joint in the drive shaft at the location of the carrier bearing. Basically the drive shaft was suspend by the coat hanger riding in the groove between the tube and the u-joint. I did not know how far I would get before the friction of the spinning drive shaft against the coat hanger would burn through but I was able to drive the entire 10 miles home like this. At 18 years old saving me the cost of a tow was a big deal and it kept me from being stranded for a couple hours. It did make a lot of scraping and whirling noise.


Dave from Northern Kentucky
My 54 3100
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Originally Posted by dgrinnan
Back to the coat hangers. I had an AD truck back in the late 70's I am not sure the year or model (can't remember) but it had a four speed on the floor and the drive shaft was two piece with a carrier bearing. I was going down the interstate about 10 miles from home with a load of suspended ceiling. (this was the 70's). The carrier bearing went out and I was forced to pull over on the high speed side of the interstate next to the dividing wall. I walked the emergency strip and found an old coat hanger. I was able to wire a make shift cradle just behind the joint in the drive shaft at the location of the carrier bearing. Basically the drive shaft was suspend by the coat hanger riding in the groove between the tube and the u-joint. I did not know how far I would get before the friction of the spinning drive shaft against the coat hanger would burn through but I was able to drive the entire 10 miles home like this. At 18 years old saving me the cost of a tow was a big deal and it kept me from being stranded for a couple hours. It did make a lot of scraping and whirling noise.
Great story. thumbs_up As the old saying goes you can hold these trucks together with bailing wire and a pair of pliers. Doubt that many folks know what bailing wire is, but it's true!


Matthew 6:33

1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55
Dalton Highway survivor (using original 216)
www.truckwithaheart.com
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I'm thinking we open a thread in the either the Tool Box or The Greasy Spoon on: hay string, hay wire, coat hangers and duck tape.

It could overload the internet, tripping breakers world wide.


RonR


1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1964 CJ5
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Was big on zip ties a few years back, but now it seems they easily break with a little age. Dunno if it's sun exposure or buying cheapest available bulk packs. If they didn't break so easily they'd rival stiff wire...except they'll melt when wire won't.


Matthew 6:33

1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55
Dalton Highway survivor (using original 216)
www.truckwithaheart.com
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 31
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Since I was an electrician before my railroad career I am more into copper wire. I always have a supply of massive insulated 6mm² (between 9 and 10 american wire gauge) at hand for any quick fix needed. wink

I once shocked computer store clerks by entering the shop with 3' of 3/4" round hard wood (straight not like a baseball bat, but coming to think about it that would be also a funny idea over here) and a supply of wire in my backpack. They were short of panic until they realized how much easier I could carry a computer by simply put it into a wire loop fixed to the wood instead of carrying a bulky box. Made a really great carrying handle.

Today, of course, I would show up with a 54' 3100 which is for me by far the greatest way to carry anything. wink

Zip ties in my opinion are only for short term fixes. In the long run they will get brittle, especially if they are exposed to higher temperatures like a car in the sun. Nevertheless I always have a hand full of 1' long zip ties in my toolbox.

I like the idea of another thread at the toolbox or greasy spoon on the subject of unconventional repairs. I would never have thought of plugging brittle heater hoses with spare spark plugs until I saw just that on a youtube video the other day...

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Do you have any pics of your 54 you can post?


Dave from Northern Kentucky
My 54 3100
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I changed my signature to show a link to an album I once made at photobucket. There are just 5 pictures right now, but more to come in time.

I put the link here for reference in case the signature wont show up or doesn't work (please give feedback as PM if any problems occur)

http://s744.photobucket.com/user/DonkenAndToivolaRR/library/Stovebolt

Last edited by cletis; 03/10/2017 5:45 PM. Reason: deleted personal message
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Nice looking truck


Dave from Northern Kentucky
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I would also take along an appropriate "Shop Manual"


1953 chevy 1/2 ton with 3 speed 318 on floor and 1955 235 engine
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X2 and a wiring circuit diagram if the shop manual does not have one or if you have customized the wiring.

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Check to be sure that your insurance policy has towing coverage and an 800 number to call for roadside assistance. Might also want to check if it has loaner/rental coverage. Hopefully never to be used, but just in case.

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Thanks for your input.

I have the owners manual in print which includes a wiring plan. I also have a tablet computer on which I have stored the appropriate version of the truck shop manual (makes an easy reading when it is dark). The tablet will also act as navigation and communication device, as mobile storage, backup camera, and many other things.

The wiring has been altered a few times without an accurate plan. Since there are no additional devices most alterings concern the direction indicators/braking light and indicators/parking lights and two replacement wires for broken ones (horn/gas gauge).

One thing I would like to add is an USB outlet to charge mobile phones or the tablet computer while on the road. As far as I read it is possible to use 12V devices in 6V cars as well. I will give that a try and when it fails I will throw the device into my 12V daily driver.

Roadside assistance, towing coverage and so on is covered by a membership in an automobilists club I have applied for.


I updated my photobucket gallery last night, see signature for link.
Best regards, Helmut

Last edited by cletis; 03/11/2017 9:36 PM. Reason: deleted personal message
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Well I'm driveing my old bolt 217 miles Friday to Ashland Kentucky, taking state route up there.
My railroad buddy's are putting on a car/train show all weekend and I'm gonna go up there hang out. All the classic cars will be inside an old store in the Ashland mall.
Anyway I was wandering what I should I bring with me in case of issues?

Here's what I've got already:
Spare tire and jack and lug wrench
Tool box with wrenches, drivers and pliers and such
Points, and spare distributed cap
Spare thermostat gasket
Extra oil
Zip ties

What else should I take or what should I do to prepare??


Stovebolter -- the Next Generation
(I'm 20)

1941 Chevy 1/2-ton pickup
"Lucy"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Photobucket

1967 Ford Mustang - "Sally"
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Bolter
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Baling wire/coat hanger, couple of gallons of water, duct tape.


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)

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I'll add it to the list


Stovebolter -- the Next Generation
(I'm 20)

1941 Chevy 1/2-ton pickup
"Lucy"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Photobucket

1967 Ford Mustang - "Sally"
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I hate to say it, but, if you bring a spare tire your carb will mess up on you. If you bring a spare carb your wheel bearings will fail. Trust me, God has a sense of humor. In other words, it's impossible to be totally prepared for all the things that could go wrong, so bring a few obvious things as you've listed, a cell phone (for 'real' emergencies), and a sense of adventure.

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Oh I know I can't be prepared for everything but I just want to have the general stuff, you're right God does seem to have a sense of humor! I guess this will be one heck of an adventure!


Stovebolter -- the Next Generation
(I'm 20)

1941 Chevy 1/2-ton pickup
"Lucy"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Photobucket

1967 Ford Mustang - "Sally"
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The indoor shows I've attended required locking gas cap and disconnecting battery. Locking gas cap is a pretty good idea anyways...just too easy for some hooligan to pour anything in there. We've come a long ways in 70 years, and gone backwards too, unfortunately. frown


Matthew 6:33

1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55
Dalton Highway survivor (using original 216)
www.truckwithaheart.com
Joined: Jun 2015
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They're requering disconnected battery and painters tape around the cap


Stovebolter -- the Next Generation
(I'm 20)

1941 Chevy 1/2-ton pickup
"Lucy"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Photobucket

1967 Ford Mustang - "Sally"
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Helmut,

All this stuff sounds OK for an emergency and quick repair. I am guessing your truck is in pretty good shape to start with if it has passed your inspection over there, pretty tough as I remember. A long time ago somebody asked this question and by the time it was over, the guy would have needed a trailer to haul all the stuff on the list.

The best way to prepare is do all the usual checks, insure the battery, charging system and fuel systems are in good shape and drive it as much as you can to disaster test everything. The more you drive it the better it will run and the more confidence you will have. My attitude is that at one time these trucks were state of the art and would go anywhere and do anything asked of them. They can still do it now, so go for it.

If you are anywhere near the Aschaffenburg Castle, how about posting a picture of your truck in front of it????

Have fun,

Mike



1946 1-ton Panel
1952 1-ton Comml. W/Grain Body
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Totally agree with MikeE. Just start driving it as your daily, fix what needs fixing and enjoy the trip.



Originally Posted by MikeE
Helmut,

All this stuff sounds OK for an emergency and quick repair. I am guessing your truck is in pretty good shape to start with if it has passed your inspection over there, pretty tough as I remember. A long time ago somebody asked this question and by the time it was over, the guy would have needed a trailer to haul all the stuff on the list.

The best way to prepare is do all the usual checks, insure the battery, charging system and fuel systems are in good shape and drive it as much as you can to disaster test everything. The more you drive it the better it will run and the more confidence you will have. My attitude is that at one time these trucks were state of the art and would go anywhere and do anything asked of them. They can still do it now, so go for it.

If you are anywhere near the Aschaffenburg Castle, how about posting a picture of your truck in front of it????

Have fun,

Mike


RonR


1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1964 CJ5
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Hi Mike,
Aschaffenburg is about 120mls away from me. That would be worth a visit on my way to sweden in July.

I did a 70 mls roundtrip today, and it was all fun. Even as the gear box got locked up in first gear at nearly exact the same place where it did the same last year in September, but never before, never in between and never since. I visited a friend some 15mls away, but I took a completely different route today and less than 100yds from the spot it happened the last time I could not go into neutral any more. Seems to be an odd place ... The fix was easy and sometimes I will have a close look at the shifter linkage.

I took the highway to my friends place and a lot of back roads up and down the hills on my way back. I am quite pleased how the truck ran. But a quick check on the spark plugs after returning home showed some differences between cylinders. I am hoping that there is nothing important going on...

Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,061
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,061
Helmut,

The quick fix for the shift linkage locking up is to not go near the place it locks up.

I seem to remember that on my friends chevy car, there were some nylon bushings that would wear causing a misalignment and the lock up. He would take a screwdriver and free them up and everything would be fine. He did replace the bushings a couple times over the years though.

I recommend the back roads, they will be a better test than just cruising the autobahn. More shifting, turning and braking.

Have you run some top cleaner through the engine? It could clean up the valves and possibly fix those differences you noticed. What were those differences, by the way?

I can only imagine what a great trip it would be driving a Bolt through Bavaria, especially the Spessarts.

Mike


1946 1-ton Panel
1952 1-ton Comml. W/Grain Body
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