The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
4 members (HandyAndy, Jon G, 2 invisible), 148 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,087
Posts1,055,985
Members48,430
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 35
U
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
U Offline
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 35
PLEASE HELP!! I recently installed ez wiring 12 cuircuit hot rod harness in my 66 c10. I am having issues with grounding of the park lights and tail lights. When I activate the turn signals both of my tail lights are flashing. The housings are old and rusty which I'm guessing is the issue. I tried running a grounding wired from the back of the tail light housing to the back of the bumper where the tag bolts are cleaned both connections really well but now the tag light is blinking slightly with blinkers. My question is

What is the best way to ground these trucks to make everything work properly? I am trying to get around buying all new housings but I will if I have to. They are suppose to ground through the body when bolted in but this is not working for me. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Negative battery terminal is grounded to engine and body

Last edited by underwoodrr; 03/02/2017 4:18 AM.
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 693
T
'Bolter
'Bolter
T Offline
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 693
Originally Posted by underwoodrr
Negative battery terminal is grounded to engine and body

I see that it doesn't say "frame" here. you need a good frame ground too

Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,718
H
Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters
Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters
H Offline
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,718
When you say ground you should apply overkill. Ground (s) might help. Cab to frame. Bed to frame. Hood to something to frame. And then add a few more. All that being said i have some new issues myself that i am curently troubleshooting so i am filing clean all housing and mating surfaces to make sure of ground.


~ HB
1966 Chevrolet K-10 | Ghost: formerly Flappy Fenders | In the Stovebolt Gallery
1962 Chevrolet C10
1962 Suburban
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,438
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,438
This sounds more like a routing issue than grounding to me.

Dennis


40 Chevy 1/2 ton
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,783
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,783
Old, rusty bulb sockets are the pits to deal with. You might have to do some surgery on the tail light assemblies and adapt new, clean sockets to the housings, with dedicated ground wires running from the new sockets all the way from them to clean, tight connections on the frame. Ditto for the license plate light.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 220
R
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
R Offline
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 220
I think I have to agree with DennisM, while you may have some grounding issues, this sounds more like a routing issue.
A couple of suggestions,
1)If you have the wires crossed at each tail light (I would assume the same for the park lights) you will end up with a weak tail light and a strong blinker. It has to do with the specific filament in the bulb used for either the blinker or tail/brake (or something along those lines). I know because I had this condition myself (it is easy to cross these if you are not using a stock harness).
2)Are you sure that you have the correct wires hooked up under the dash? You state that both tail lights are flashing. There is a separator coming out of the turn signals that send the flasher to the specific side yet still maintains the brake light being available at any time so you can check this connection and make sure you are correct. Even a non-stock harness should follow the turn signal/brake wire routing as shown in the shop manuals.
3)You state you are using a non-stock wiring harness (nothing wrong with that - i am doing it myself), so it may have come with a rear flasher capability (i don't recall that as an option on these trucks) and that may be the culprit if you are trying to have those function on your truck. Yes it can be done, but you have to have the wires routed correctly.
Finally, if you are concerned with a ground, pull the bulb out, run a specific wire (outside the truck) from the bulb directly to the negative battery post and put a trouble light in between, if you get a good light and you don't without the dedicated wire, yes you have a bad ground.


Moderated by  Hambone, Woogeroo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0