The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Drum brake puller for 58 Viking 60 stuck brake drum?

This problem truck of mine. Lol 58 Viking 60 Got dual wheels off finally. Lots pw blaster and new 3/4 impact hammer Drilled out the three screws holding brake drum on. But these buddy's are stuck. I backed off the shoes in at front dof drum with shoe adjuster wheel but the star adjuster on back shoe is frozen even after paw blaster though access hole. So at least one of the shoes is backed off drum. I hit around with ball pin hammer put penatrating oil
oil around each lug stud and hub at drum interface, hit with hammer to vibrate oil around ( I hope). Still not any wiggle in drum Heated drum up and repeated lol of the above. No luck Wondering if ther is a drum puller anyone's tried for these 4" drum brake drums

Hy txpete, brake drum removal can be a patience tester. If you have to resort to a puller, something will probably end up being damaged if not totally destroyed. If you remove the outer rear wheel bearing you can pull the hub with the drum on it. If you find a thick piece of steel that will span the opening of the axle tube but allow the inner rear wheel bearing to pass over it you can use that to press against, you can use the axle studs to attach the puller, you may have to remove the original studs and install some longer ones, hope that helps.

Sometimes it is possible to unbolt the backing plate and after removing wheel bearing lock nuts pull the entire wheel end assembly; hub, drum, and all brake parts.
Then reaching in the hole in backing plate you can fiddle with brakes enough to free the drum.

Grigg

Are you guys saying I MUST remove hub hub and axle assembly to remove brake drum. This is a twinplex rear brake on a two speed Rearend 6000 series 1958. Just double checking as shop manual shows brake drum off in pictures in the brake maintainece section with hub and axle still on. I am assuming your answers to original question is for last ditch efforts???

you CAN pull the drum off without taking the hub off, but if it is stuck to the hub, remove the axle, then the hub and drum as a unit. Once off, assuming you took the small bolts out that hold the drum onto the hub, you can lay it on the shop floor with the lugs facing up. Lift one edge and bang it onto the floor. Work back and forth around the drum and it will eventually work loose.

Sounds like you've tried to dissemble as it would easily come apart if all clean and new... But that's giving you trouble and you asked for more ideas.

Next try removing hub and drum together,
Or possibly hub, drum, shoes, and backing plate all together.

Have you tried threading the three holes spaced around the drum and running bolts through them to press it off? It might be worth sacrificing a couple taps even.
I'm not up on duallys but recenty realized while removing the drums on my toyota pu which has the same 3 holes prethreaded, threading those hole makes drum removal much easier.

Drill and tap two holes 180 degrees apart with a pretty healthy thread- - - -7/16-20 or 1/2-20. Screw a couple of grade 8 bolts through the holes against the hub and tighten- - - -tap- - - -repeat as necessary. A couple more holes won't hurt the drum any, and it's the simplest, least damaging way I can think of to push a stuck drum off the hub.
Jerry

I'll give it a try. Thanks. Would it be of help or would it hinder effort if I loosen or remove the bolts holding wheel cylinders from backing plate on the drum / hub that won't turn by hand or under power, since obviously the shoes are in a bind.

The left doesn't turn even when in first gear on stands. Got me thinking. ,,,, if left rear has.left hand thread on lug nuts does the brake shoe adjuster star wheel work in reverse as well ? The right side lossen as I rotated brake tool away from center point and tightened shoes against drum when the butt of tool rotated to the center. Hard to tell if left side is opposite rotation with drum stuck and no hub rotation. Funny I drove the truck a few times and the wheel rolled along and was the only rear brake working. Thanks again for your insights.

If you don't have the opposite wheel on the ground or otherwise kept from turning you won't get a sticky wheel/drum on the other side to turn under power, that's how the differential works, this is normal. If this is the situation put that wheel back on and set it down, again try to get your sticky one to turn.

Unbolting wheel cylinders sometimes helps free things up but usually not a lot in my experience.

The brake adjusters are same each side. Just the Budd lug nuts/studs that are left and right hand thread.

Thanks to all the advise. Victory. After heating thrum to 225 degrees, using small wedges around demo. Hitting over and over as heating, and prying on back drum with flat bar I got them off. Thanks for all the ideas.

Whoop success today with lots of heat 225 degrees. Hammering while heating and a porta jack keeping pressure on lip of drum ( 200-300 limit on particular spreader I used ). Finally brole loose. Good news ..all springs and apparatus look good. Leaking wheel cylinders on left. ( lucky I bought rebuild kits plus one rear front one rear rear new complete cylinder since I broke off two mounting bolts in cylinder. Building new brake lines tomorrow and hope to get it put back together by Sunday. Hope I can find a replacement rear rubber brakeline. I assume it's there to flex with truck movements and vibrations. Thanks for all th advise I'm having fun learning and restoring this old girl.

Got it all done today. Just need to bleed and see what I got

rear rubber brake hose is still available. Yes, it is needed since the rear end moves in relation to the frame. The rear hose on my 58 is the Raybestos BH4000 (or Napa UP4000).

Here is a link to my thread on this very same thing almost a year ago.
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1156571/1.html

Thanks guys. Brake job complete and working well.