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#1202098 01/30/2017 12:32 AM
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I got the 54 3800 started this weekend, I had to feed it gas by pouring in the carb. After some testing I have decided that the fuel pump is not pulling fuel. Im leaning the direction of an electric pump with the low oil pressure shut off. I was just curious what " universal " pumps folks have had good luck with? I do plan to daily drive the truck so reliability is a must.

davidh62689 #1202101 01/30/2017 12:56 AM
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1. Lean towards getting an original mechanical pump.
2. If you get electric be sure to control the pressure, the carb won't take any deviation over designed pressure. 3.5-5 lbs.
3. What is a low pressure shut off for? Why needed?

Airtex 4149
AC Delco 4149
Example

Last edited by bartamos; 01/30/2017 1:16 AM.

Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
davidh62689 #1202104 01/30/2017 1:15 AM
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the low oil pressure shut off kills the pump if the oil pressure drops off to keep it from spraying gas if the engine quits. kind of a safety thing it also has a 3 second prime when you first send power to it.

davidh62689 #1202105 01/30/2017 1:16 AM
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Sounds like a fuel injection thing to me. See my post, was typing when you posted. Stay with mechanical. Too much clap trap otherwise. Not needed. That is what most here will tell you I'll bet.
BTW: don't know what motor 327 or 235 or ?


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
davidh62689 #1202107 01/30/2017 1:38 AM
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235 for the time, i wanted to build a hot rod but i think im just going to keep it as is and drive it.

davidh62689 #1202110 01/30/2017 1:43 AM
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Consider the pump with the vacuume assist for the wipers . I dont have one but my 54 wipers run slow and stop at times .I am going to redo the wiper motor first but I do think the extra vacuumed for the wipers may help .


1954 Canadian GMC 9300
"The Journey"
Follow in the DITY
davidh62689 #1202114 01/30/2017 1:56 AM
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The mechanical pump is by far the best choice. If you do choose to go electric, an oil pressure switch is an absolute must. It has nothing whatsoever to do with fuel injection - - - -it's just common sense to stop the pump from running anytime the engine quits, and an electric pump wired straight to the ignition switch can't do that. I've had good luck with the little inline pumps that look like a metal-housing fuel filter with two wires. There's plenty of them available on Ebay. They don't overpressure and they do deliver enough volume to supply any reasonable amount of demand. To retain the look of original equipment you can gut out a mechanical pump and reinstall it on the engine block with the fuel line running through it. Be sure to put a metal blockoff plate on the block opening and remove the guts of the pump, however.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
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davidh62689 #1202210 01/30/2017 6:32 PM
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I found that the fuel pump on my 1950 3600 plugs up from sediment as the fuel comes right out the bottom of the tank which was cleaned by a professional. Sometime this winter I will crawl around under it and put a filter upstream from the pump.


1950 3600
1951 4400
Gazz
davidh62689 #1202236 01/30/2017 9:13 PM
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I struggle to imagine any compelling advantage to electric in this instance. Nothing could be simpler than the mechanical pump. Two bolts and done. Easy to buy at any parts store (might have to wait a day or two). By definition it stops running when engine stops.

Something to be aware of, the first pump the parts guy pulls up may or may not have the inlet/outlet plumbed at the same angles as your current one. I found a white haired gentleman who was able to pull out "the book" and start crossing until we found the one I wanted...with inlet and outlet parallel to block. None of this really matters if you are running new line...just thought I'd mention.

I can probably dig up the part # of the one I used if you need it.


1951 3100
davidh62689 #1202241 01/30/2017 9:40 PM
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Gazz, can we assume you have an electrical pump?


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
davidh62689 #1202295 01/31/2017 3:37 AM
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Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part
Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part
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If you have questions, PM me. Due to attempting numerous mechanical fuel pumps and none of them moving fuel, I just put in a electric pump from car quest that was with in spec of the mechanical one.
1. Fuel pump positive went to the battery
2. Fuel pump negative goes to the oil pressure switch ( ensure other side of the switch is grounded. Use the 2 parallel connections)
3. The pressure gauge connects to the back of the oil pressure gauge.
4. In order to connect the original oil pressure tubing, I have to cut the end off the tubing and purchased an after market oil pressure line kit from NAPA. I then used the parts to crush, lock (screw) the tubing onto the switch.
5. Ensure that you use a fuel filter between the pump and the fuel tank. (I actually have 2 since my pump came with one and one was already in place.)

My truck start right up with little issue and runs great. I have not driven the truck as of yet, just drooled as she idled.

I hope that this helps, I can always take pictures if you need me to.

Chris

Last edited by ndkid275; 01/31/2017 3:41 AM.
davidh62689 #1202309 01/31/2017 4:06 AM
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I a not adverse to the use of an electric fuel pump in general. In fact I used one with a pressure regulator with a return line to the fuel tank on a '83 Trans Am to solve a vapor lock issue which was a common malady of this model.
I would not do this on a 216/235/261 in an AD.
I would keep buying new mechanical pumps until I found a good one, or buy a rebuild kit and rebuild an original glass bowl type pump.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
davidh62689 #1202315 01/31/2017 4:29 AM
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Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part
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Carl, after much discussion, we think my truck has a bad lobe. Otherwise I would not have changed it from mechanical.

davidh62689 #1202346 01/31/2017 6:38 AM
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So ndkid, you are actually not advising poster to use one.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
davidh62689 #1202445 02/01/2017 2:46 AM
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My opinion is only change the things that you need to in order to get her running. Keep the truck simple stupid like it originally was! Just my 2 cents.

davidh62689 #1202477 02/01/2017 5:03 AM
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2 cent kid burn! Dang, the mod must be off tonight.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
davidh62689 #1202507 02/01/2017 4:07 PM
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Carl, not trying to burn anyone. I didn't want to change mine, but it was the simple and easiest thing I could do to get the truck running without opening the engine to check the cam out. All I can say is my truck is now running (not driving just yet). My philosophy in life is to keep things simple and not change things unless there is no other way.

davidh62689 #1202599 02/02/2017 2:41 AM
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I know that you weren't calling bartamos "simple" or "stupid" (or anyone else for that matter). I was just rattling bartamos' chain. Raising his blood pressure seems to keep him alert and focused. smile


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
davidh62689 #1202603 02/02/2017 3:24 AM
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Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part
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Too funny, I never even noticed that! I am the simple stupid one! I can admit that without feeling bad.

davidh62689 #1202665 02/02/2017 6:25 PM
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BP 140/75


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
bartamos #1202699 02/03/2017 1:25 AM
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Originally Posted by bartamos
BP 140/75
I see I need to step up my game...


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission

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