The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
6 members (klhansen, Peggy M, Maybellene, TexasJim50, Hanks custodian, Woodcmiami), 92 guests, and 2 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,059
Posts1,055,820
Members48,426
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#1200738 01/21/2017 9:02 PM
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 24
T
New Guy
New Guy
T Offline
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 24
Just starting to learn about the electrical side of things and though the vast knowledge here would help. My stove was idling well for about 20 min then suddenly ran rough for a minute and stalled. After sitting for 6 hours the coil was still almost too hot to touch. It has been converted to 12v but I don't know if the coil was changed. It doesn't any indication of voltage on the coil. What I do know, it has a new 12v battery and has an old ballast resistor. The starter was changed and the coil was wired back to the R screw which just grounded it and caused the ballast resistor to get hot. Not sure if it is bad or if the coil is bad or not the correct voltage. I bough a new 12v coil but haven't installed it yet. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

tneely76 #1200832 01/22/2017 12:46 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,624
B
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
B Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,624
A couple of things jump out here. The "R" lug on the starter is the start circuit for the engine. It provides full battery voltage to the coil for starting only. The ballast resistor voltage should come from the run circuit of you ignition switch. These two circuits come together at the '+' side of your coil. The resistors job is to drop the battery voltage to around 9 volts or so for the coil when the engine is running. Both the coil and ballast do get hot. Resistors fail in the open position so it's not bad.
Don't know if you 'cooked' your coil. If not and want things to calm things down a bit then change the value of the ballast resistor. They make them with different values. A larger resistance value resistor will limit the amount of current the coil sees. Use an ohm meter to determine the present value of the resistor if it's not printed on the side. Note: heat sinking the resistor is not a bad idea.
Also, the ballast resistor feed side (other end from coil) does not go to "R" and "R" is not a ground. "R" should be hot only in the start position of the ignition switch and the car in park or neutral, if an automatic.

Last edited by beltfed; 01/22/2017 12:58 PM.

Six volt guy living in a twelve volt world
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 24
T
New Guy
New Guy
T Offline
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 24
beltfed, thanks for the info, it helps me understand the ignition system better. I explored it further today to check the voltage throughout and am still perplexed. I am going to pose another question in a different post. If you catch it, it would be great if you had further input. Thanks again.


Moderated by  Jon G, Rusty Rod 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0