The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Park Brake Cable Installation

Hi Everyone. Got a question about installing a park brake cable.

But first, the facts: I'm working on a 1953 3100. It has the park brake setup with the foot pedal that moves a rod that is connected to a large rod that crosses from one side of the truck to the other. To which 2 cables are connected, one on each side, that run into the drum brake housing and connect to the park brake actuator.

My issue is that I can not get the new park brake cable to go into the bracket that connects it to the large rod. It appears that the new cable is just a little too large. Here are a couple of pics to show what I'm talking about. The old park brake connection shows the cable going into the bracket and that the nut and bolt squeeze it to keep it in place. The new park brake connection shows how far I can get, which is to say right up to the opening of the bracket. I haven't measured it, but it looks like its no more than a 1/16" difference.

So I'm wondering a couple of things. Is this something that others have encountered? If so, how did you handle it? Is it possible to open up the bracket a little until I can get the cable into position, without breaking the bracket? Does the bracket need to be reamed out a little? Those kind of questions.

I have searched the archives and found that many people had issues in the past with short cables, but I didn't see anything about cables that were too large to fit in the brackets.

As an OBTW, the cables came from Jim Carter. I'm not sure who he uses to source them, so I'm not sure of any potential quality issues that others may have encountered.

As usual for my crazy questions...please be gentle. Like everything else that I'm doing on my truck, this is a first for me. So with that in mind, all suggestions are welcome!

Thanks in advance for the help.

Mike,

As you probably know - be careful with what I think is a cast arm (I broke one trying to spread it to fit an aftermarket cable). By the way, I bought cables from 3 different vendors and they were all too wide in diameter.

Luckily, I had a set of GM NOS replacement cables, so I know the aftermarket sets are too large in diameter.

Try drilling/reaming the inside of the "clamps" - step-up in drill size/diameter very gradually - do not drill out more than necessary. This worked for me on one of my trucks.

Be careful - and, good luck.

Tim

Tim,

Thanks. I was thinking that the bracket was a cast piece. Not wanting to booger anything up unnecessarily, I thought I'd ask. It is disappointing to hear about your experience with the different vendors and their respective fitment issues.

I guess my next step is to find a very complete drill bit set and step up to the plate! It'll be a couple of days before I can get to it, but I'll keep everyone posted on how it goes!

Mike,

I really had a time getting parking brake cables for my '47 due to the cable housing length. Before you modify anything, make sure the cable housing length and overall cable length are correct.

I went a different direction than Tim. I carefully ground the end of the cable housing to fit the cast bracket. I had to take off about a 1/16 of an inch. It was a slow process, grinding and checking for fit as I went.

The result was good for me as the cables work just fine.

Andy's technique sounds good. Grinding down the bad part is better than reaming out an original cast fitting. I was afraid to try that - afraid there would not be enough metal on the end of the cable housing.

What are these companies thinking when they make these parts? Please do not blame it on the Chinese (the Chinese will make it to whatever diameter they are given)?

Taking a little meat off of the cable end should be pretty easy and I can definitely do that easier than messing with the bracket. It does seem a lot safer for the truck than drilling out the bracket!

I am pretty sure I have enough length to do the job, but will stretch out the cable to make sure. Is there a specific length of cable relative to the mounting bracket that I should look for? I'm thinking that when the park brake is released, that would be the longest length for the cable. Is that correct?

That 1/16" is the same as what I estimated my cable was over by. So I feel pretty good about taking this approach. I won't be able to get under the truck until next weekend, so it'll be a couple of days until I can try, but I will try and I'll let everyone know how it goes.

Thanks for the ideas!

I had the same problem with my 54 (3100). I ordered 3 sets of cables before I ordered the correct cables from "Inline Tube". The first 2 sets came from Classic parts and Rockauto. They were both the same with frame connection not anywhere close to the original. The 3rd set came from Rockauto again, but this time a Dorman product. The frame end looked the same in a picture, however, too large in diameter to go into the frame bracket. And YES the frame bracket is cast and you will brake it if you try opening it up. The ones from Inline tube are an exact replacement, however they are more than twice the price. You can also order them in stainless for even more $$$. I have to throw this in... During the restoration of my 54 3100, finding parts has not been a problem, finding good quality parts is a BIG problem.
Big names like Bendix, AC Delco and Dorman all package the same overseas junk. I just have a hard time understanding why they don't check the quality and fit before they package in their boxes. Frustrating some times!

I know you may not want to go this way but FYI....I completely switched to a floor mounted e-brake. Could not be happier with it. Adjacent to my floor shifter (auto trans). If interested or you did not complete your project I can check where I bought the hardware.

I found a 4 speed with a driveshaft emergency brake attached in the salvage yard for pretty inexpensive. I was excited to not have to deal with cables. Good luck.