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Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for MORE wrenching? 
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7 members (JW51, baldeagle, Oswald, Gdads51, Jay R, greenie-reddy, 1 invisible),
43
guests, and
4
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,004 Posts1,055,247 Members48,418 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 144 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 144 | I was in the parts store picking up some sand paper in the body repair dept the other day and I came across a liquid product that you apply on rust and is suppose to neutralize it and stop the rust from going any further. Apparently after sanding most of the rust out you apply it and the rust turns a dull black colour and is "neutralized". I was just wondering if anyone has tried a similar product and if it works? They also had a product that you could use on rusted chrome. I've been sanding on the old 46 hood for weeks now and the rust just doesn't want to go away. Bob.T | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | yes, called 'rust converters' - contain various natural organic acids, particularly tannic acid, which changes the iron oxide to iron tannate, which is harmless
most work well, especially to get into the rusty pits, but you still need to get rid of the flakey stuff and get the surface smooth enuff for the real body work
Bill | | | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 1,552 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 1,552 | The rust neutralizers/encapsulators/converters, as many of these products are called, are very effective in the neutralizing of rust, if used properly. I highly recommend a number of them, if being utilized for their intended purpose. In any event, good luck with your project. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 428 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 428 | I use a spray on rust converter and it works really well. My suggestion would be to top coat the converter after at least a 24 hour drying time with epoxy primer, paint, etc. The converter is good for it's intended purpose but it will not stop rust from reforming for an extended period of time. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 33 Member | | Member Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 33 | 4-5-6,
What are some of the brands that you recommend or are familiar with? | | | | | Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 888 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 888 | Cribb, I used a product called "Right Stuff". It worked fine. I used a wire brush and put 2 coats of it on and I will use a epoxy primer. Cost about $5 a quart. I put in a spray bottle and sprayed away. Got all the nooks and crannies. Seems to work OK. Pics on website below Dan http://community.webshots.com/mypho...=1512697534071274430&security=JGhigW | | | | | Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 9 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 9 | Our shop uses a product called "Ospho" which is a Phosphoric acid solution which does exactly the same thing as the above products. Our local Napa carries it, and it comes in quarts. Like everyone else has said, prepping is the key, it will not turn flakes into solid metal again. Instead it just makes clumps of hard to remove flakes, so clean off all loose material first. Also, a good set of gloves and a mask or outdoor environment is a necessity, this stuff is tough and pretty good for removing nose hair! Good luck
Need more space for VEHICLES in the list area! Maybe I just need to thin the herd...
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