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Labor Day

Labor Day

Putting down your wrenches or time for
MORE wrenching?

Wrenching this Labor Day
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#119788 03/06/2006 1:42 AM
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 144
B
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
B Offline
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 144
I was in the parts store picking up some sand paper in the body repair dept the other day and I came across a liquid product that you apply on rust and is suppose to neutralize it and stop the rust from going any further. Apparently after sanding most of the rust out you apply it and the rust turns a dull black colour and is "neutralized". I was just wondering if anyone has tried a similar product and if it works? They also had a product that you could use on rusted chrome. I've been sanding on the old 46 hood for weeks now and the rust just doesn't want to go away. Bob.T

#119789 03/06/2006 2:21 AM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
F Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
yes, called 'rust converters' - contain various natural organic acids, particularly tannic acid, which changes the iron oxide to iron tannate, which is harmless

most work well, especially to get into the rusty pits, but you still need to get rid of the flakey stuff and get the surface smooth enuff for the real body work

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
#119790 03/08/2006 4:38 PM
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,552
4
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
4 Offline
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,552
The rust neutralizers/encapsulators/converters, as many of these products are called, are very effective in the neutralizing of rust, if used properly. I highly recommend a number of them, if being utilized for their intended purpose. In any event, good luck with your project.

#119791 03/13/2006 3:26 AM
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 428
B
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
B Offline
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 428
I use a spray on rust converter and it works really well. My suggestion would be to top coat the converter after at least a 24 hour drying time with epoxy primer, paint, etc. The converter is good for it's intended purpose but it will not stop rust from reforming for an extended period of time.


Ralph Davis
1970 Chevy C10 Webshots
My Stovebolt Gallery page

Old trucks never die, they just find a new home.
#119792 03/14/2006 5:18 AM
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 33
C
Member
Member
C Offline
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 33
4-5-6,

What are some of the brands that you recommend or are familiar with?

#119793 03/14/2006 2:41 PM
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 888
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 888
Cribb,
I used a product called "Right Stuff". It worked fine. I used a wire brush and put 2 coats of it on and I will use a epoxy primer. Cost about $5 a quart. I put in a spray bottle and sprayed away. Got all the nooks and crannies. Seems to work OK. Pics on website below
Dan
http://community.webshots.com/mypho...=1512697534071274430&security=JGhigW

#119794 03/29/2006 3:19 AM
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9
M
New Guy
New Guy
M Offline
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9
Our shop uses a product called "Ospho" which is a Phosphoric acid solution which does exactly the same thing as the above products. Our local Napa carries it, and it comes in quarts. Like everyone else has said, prepping is the key, it will not turn flakes into solid metal again. Instead it just makes clumps of hard to remove flakes, so clean off all loose material first. Also, a good set of gloves and a mask or outdoor environment is a necessity, this stuff is tough and pretty good for removing nose hair! Good luck


Need more space for VEHICLES in the list area! Maybe I just need to thin the herd...

Moderated by  klhansen 

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