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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,192 Posts1,057,355 Members48,469 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 863 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 863 | I finally got the center of the hood on my '49 3100 up so that it is level with the body. Removed the shims from the outer screws on the rear hood center bracket and placed a sot piece of 2 x 4 between the hood and cowl and slowly closed the hood several times to raise the center rear of the hood up even with the cowling. Re-tightened all the rear center bracket screws. This adjustment pulled in the rear sides of the hood.
Now I have noticed that the passenger side rear lip of the hood stands about 1/8" inch up from the hood to cowl seal. Drivers side is tight. Gap is the same between the rear of the hood and cowl. 1/4" give or take a few thousands. I have checked all the hinges and both the drivers side and passenger side are bottomed out on the hump on the sides of the cowling. Can't press down on the back of the hood on either side once it is closed. It appears that I have about 1/16-1/8" gap between the hood and hood to cowl seal on the passenger side. Hood sets down that amount from the cowling when the hood is closed. In other words, the hood at the very rear of the cowling on the passenger side is not level with the cowl by 1/16-1/8". Is it possible to shim the hood to cowl seal that amount to bring it up even with the cowling and what would be the best way to shim the hood to cowl seal? I have not used weather strip adhesive on the hood to cowl seal yet, just the retainers and screws, so it can easily be removed. Any ideas?
Tim
"Pay attention to the details! It ALWAYS pays off."
1949 Chevrolet 3100 Series 1/2 ton Pickup 1964 Chevrolet C10 (Ol' Yella) (SOLD) 1958 Chevrolet Biscayne 2 door (SOLD) 1970 VW Beetle
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,310 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,310 | The Factory Manual has directions on how to lower the hinges if they hit the hump. They call for the use of a hammer. If more movement is needed after the hammer, enlarging the hinge bolt holes is called for. I have a question before you break out the hammer. Is your gap, where the hood meets the cowl, the same the full width when the hood is closed?
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 863 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 863 | Carl,
Yes, the gap is the same all the way across the rear of the hood when it is closed. 1/4 inch at the sides, at the center rear and all along the rear of the hood. The passenger side sits 1/16-1/8" lower than the cowl just in front of the passenger side windshield and has a 1/16 -1/8 inch gap where it doesn't touch the hood to cowl seal. It appears as though the cowl is low on that side. All cab mounts have been replaced with the same number and thickness of shims that were removed. If I raised the cab at the passenger side front by 1/8" with a shim would this correct the hood fit on the rear passenger side?
Tim
"Pay attention to the details! It ALWAYS pays off."
1949 Chevrolet 3100 Series 1/2 ton Pickup 1964 Chevrolet C10 (Ol' Yella) (SOLD) 1958 Chevrolet Biscayne 2 door (SOLD) 1970 VW Beetle
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,310 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,310 | Shimming the cab will do nothing to alter the hood fitment at the cowl. Sounds like you need to make more adjustments to the hood to bring it down further. Remove both hood springs. (very important) Loosen outside hinge bolt, passenger side. Place a 4 inch block under nose of hood. While an assistant presses down on the hood, loosen the two inside hinge bolts on the passenger side. Once your assistant says it went down, tighten the bolts. Remove 4 inch block, close hood. If the hinge won't go down far enough, you will either need to hammer down the cowl and/or open up the holes in the cowl (as per Truck Shop Manual). Carl
Last edited by 52Carl; 12/31/2016 5:37 AM.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 863 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 863 | Carl,
Thank you for the advice and the direction I need to take. I will give it a try when I can get my lazy son -in-law off his behind and the weather warms up a little.
Thanks again.
Tim
"Pay attention to the details! It ALWAYS pays off."
1949 Chevrolet 3100 Series 1/2 ton Pickup 1964 Chevrolet C10 (Ol' Yella) (SOLD) 1958 Chevrolet Biscayne 2 door (SOLD) 1970 VW Beetle
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