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#1197113 12/27/2016 7:37 PM
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'Bolter
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So I managed to pick up an ever-elusive set of rear fenders. They're the right colour and the paint is nicely aged, similar to the cab. I would like to know what the best way is to get them into better shape, without doing a full restore on them. I just wanted something that I can bolt on that looks decent and will last a few years before I have to look to replace with a new set and paint the whole truck. It appears that someone has done some patching on the bottom corners of them already, as they left the original rough edge underneath. I'm mostly concerned about the fender-to-bedside parts, as they are rusted with some breaks here and there. I'm not a welder or a body work guy and I'm sure getting someone to do it for me would cost somewhere close to what a new set would go for. I would just like to know if/where it would be good to cut and weld in some replacement metal or supports. I would then de-rust and POR15 the whole underside with some rocker-guard to prolong life as well.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

https://goo.gl/photos/7241o9yiERbdqoTc6
https://goo.gl/photos/JUP25SXf6mkNj7fM9
https://goo.gl/photos/vq6RHTTBn2ZDKHw68
https://goo.gl/photos/WLBCMAnvxSNAfpZS6
https://goo.gl/photos/fKdgbCFeb5M3Eer29


1948 Chevy Thriftmaster 3/4-Ton
Poncho "farming" in Ontario
Starting in the DITY
Continuing in the Project Journals
More images

There are only 10 types of people in this world, those who can read binary and those who can't.
Goach2 #1197138 12/27/2016 11:13 PM
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K
'Bolter
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Looks pretty rough my parts truck is a ontario truck and is rusty also .if they are just temporary then paint them up use or make some washers to hold them on and keep a look for some better ones.Takes a lotime of time and a welder to fix them proper.


1954 Canadian GMC 9300
"The Journey"
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Goach2 #1197205 12/28/2016 5:45 AM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Those fenders are actually in pretty good shape. I'd trade them for the ones I started with. wink Check the photo links in this thread. Fender Patch Panel Forming
The worst spot looks like the crown brace, which can be replaced. Some fender washers would take care of the mounting holes.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Goach2 #1197346 12/29/2016 2:57 PM
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'Bolter
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Thanks Kevin,

I really enjoyed seeing your pics, although I think you made it look too easy smile I think I might get a better idea of the work involved once I clean out the inside of the fender down to bare metal. Does it make sense to cut out the original rusted metal from where the new metal was welded in and over-laps it?


1948 Chevy Thriftmaster 3/4-Ton
Poncho "farming" in Ontario
Starting in the DITY
Continuing in the Project Journals
More images

There are only 10 types of people in this world, those who can read binary and those who can't.
Goach2 #1197348 12/29/2016 3:12 PM
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,901
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Originally Posted by Goach2
Thanks Kevin,

I really enjoyed seeing your pics, although I think you made it look too easy smile I think I might get a better idea of the work involved once I clean out the inside of the fender down to bare metal. Does it make sense to cut out the original rusted metal from where the new metal was welded in and over-laps it?


Overlap? No. Figure out were the edges of your old metal are shot then form a patch the size and shape you need and carefully trace and cut just inside that line. Make the patch as close to fitting as possible then butt weld the new metal in. Best advice is found at MP&C's links. Follow his guidance and you'll have more than just a patched fender... you'll have new skills.


Give me ambiguity
or give me something else
Goach2 #1197352 12/29/2016 3:45 PM
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'Bolter
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Hi CASO - that will be my approach when I do get around to trying my hand at patching/welding, but I'm actually referring to the existing overlapped welds that the PO did on the fenders. I just want to preserve it for now until I have the time/resources to do more. I would think that these overlaps would be a spot for future rust through?

Thanks


1948 Chevy Thriftmaster 3/4-Ton
Poncho "farming" in Ontario
Starting in the DITY
Continuing in the Project Journals
More images

There are only 10 types of people in this world, those who can read binary and those who can't.
Goach2 #1197357 12/29/2016 4:02 PM
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,901
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I'd sure stay away from Por15 if I planned on working on it in a few years. That shhtuff is not worker friendly when you try and remove it.... unless it was applied over clean metal.
Id drive it like it is till the time for repairs. Maybe a coat of rustoleum. At least it comes off.


Give me ambiguity
or give me something else
Goach2 #1197394 12/29/2016 8:44 PM
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G
'Bolter
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Thanks CASO. Is that a vote to leave the overlapped metal? Or cut it out to expose and paint underneath?


1948 Chevy Thriftmaster 3/4-Ton
Poncho "farming" in Ontario
Starting in the DITY
Continuing in the Project Journals
More images

There are only 10 types of people in this world, those who can read binary and those who can't.
Goach2 #1197506 12/30/2016 7:43 AM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
I'm with CASO on the overlapped areas. I'd clean them up best as possible, then soak them with Rustoleum, getting it into the overlapped spots as deep as you can. The fenders came with a doubler plate where the running boards mount. That may be what you're seeing there rather than a patch. Unless you want to cut out the rust and butt weld in new patch panels, I'd use the Rustoleum approach. I looked at your pics again, and I might OA gas weld up those few cracks around the mounting holes to keep them from growing. The nice thing about OA gas welding is you don't need to get the metal spotless before welding.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Goach2 #1197532 12/30/2016 3:32 PM
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,901
C
Shop Shark
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^^^^ yup.


Give me ambiguity
or give me something else
Goach2 #1197543 12/30/2016 5:26 PM
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G
'Bolter
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Great, thanks Kevin/CASO.


1948 Chevy Thriftmaster 3/4-Ton
Poncho "farming" in Ontario
Starting in the DITY
Continuing in the Project Journals
More images

There are only 10 types of people in this world, those who can read binary and those who can't.

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