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| | | Forums66 Topics128,129 Posts1,056,700 Members48,454 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 70 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 70 | I have a couple of questions. what is the correct engine color? The two studs in the exhaust manifold that the intake seats on that are just in front of and behind the carburetor are they threaded into the exhaust manifold or pressed in?
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| | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 2,951 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 2,951 | I have a couple of questions. what is the correct engine color? The two studs in the exhaust manifold that the intake seats on that are just in front of and behind the carburetor are they threaded into the exhaust manifold or pressed in? The 1966 C10 250ci truck engine should be Chevy blue. Don't know the answer to the last part. I doubt they are threaded but someone else should know. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,228 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,228 | The exhaust manifold is threaded where the two bolts go into it. The third bolt, fender side, is a nut and bolt. Look closely when you have the two separated for wear. The gaskets tend to wear on the manifolds creating grooves that are hard to seal. I have had a set that needed two gaskets to seal up. When assembling back to the engine, snug the three bolts first that hold them together, then tighten the bolts to the head. Always hold the weight of the manifold till you have enough bolts in the head to support the weight. I like to tighten the bolts highest up on the head first then the lowest ones, that way the bolts are not lifting all the weight of the manifolds. Once you have all bolts snug, tighten the three holding them together, then starting in the center of the head, work your way towards each end. The two small locating studs on each end are also threaded in to the head, you can add bolts if you are have sealing issues out on the end, just don't over tighten them. If you have the time and money, you can get the manifolds surface. With the three center bolts tight, have both manifolds machined as one unit, this will insure a flat surface and positive sealing to the head. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 70 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 70 |
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| | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 Crusing in the Passing Lane | | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 | If you have the option, don't waste the $ on a 235 when a 292 give more power.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
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