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Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 20
L
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
L Offline
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 20
Bumped into USC All-Metal and did some reading. Aluminum based and you can powder-coat over it. Not chrome though.
Used it to do some grill work on my '54. A few observations:

* The only negative is that the reactor is pretty atomic. they say put 12-14 drops into a golf ball size of the filler. Too much. It only gives you working time under 5 minutes. I went to 8-9 and it was better but you still need to work pretty quickly.

* Did a coat...sanded it...then did another coat to build it up. These were on dents NOT holes.

* Hardens in about 20-30 minutes to a point where you can sand it. I used a circular grinder with 80 grit at #4 (of 6) speeds and it cut thru the All-Metal and feathered it very nicely.

* I am thinking if I was to fill a fender hole, I would start on the bottom of the hole with fiberglas cloth and filler (like DuraGlass) to create a backing. then I would use All-Metal to fill the hole itself.

Anyway, good product that is a bit pricey but satisfied so far.

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,299
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
G Offline
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,299
Originally Posted by larrygk
Bumped into USC All-Metal and did some reading. Aluminum based and you can powder-coat over it. Not chrome though.
Used it to do some grill work on my '54. A few observations:

* The only negative is that the reactor is pretty atomic. they say put 12-14 drops into a golf ball size of the filler. Too much. It only gives you working time under 5 minutes. I went to 8-9 and it was better but you still need to work pretty quickly.

* Did a coat...sanded it...then did another coat to build it up. These were on dents NOT holes.

* Hardens in about 20-30 minutes to a point where you can sand it. I used a circular grinder with 80 grit at #4 (of 6) speeds and it cut thru the All-Metal and feathered it very nicely.

* I am thinking if I was to fill a fender hole, I would start on the bottom of the hole with fiberglas cloth and filler (like DuraGlass) to create a backing. then I would use All-Metal to fill the hole itself.

Anyway, good product that is a bit pricey but satisfied so far.

Easier than that, you can put masking tape on one side, use the all metal, and peel the tape off afterwards.

Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 20
L
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
L Offline
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 20
I like easy. Thanks. Have you used it to fill seams?

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,065
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,065
I like the other kind of all-metal to fill holes.
before
after

grin


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 338
F
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
F Offline
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 338
What he klhansen said! 100%! Seriously take a look at the work he does by clicking the photo links. Someone who really does nice work! Well done!

Great product but it is still a polyester filler. It and fibreglass filler should never ever never ever be used to fill a hole in steel unless you want to do it again after you paint it.

The only thing we can do to repair a hole in steel is to use steel by welding in a patch.
Originally Posted by klhansen
I like the other kind of all-metal to fill holes.
before
after

grin

Any other attempt to "fill" a hole will fail 100% of the time.

Fibreglass filler works great on boats, hot tubs or corvettes only.

Last edited by FootStomper; 12/05/2016 6:42 PM.

~~ Darcy

1959 GMC 9310 Canadian- built Shortbox Fleetside Deluxe
FootStomper
In the Stovebolt Gallery
In the Project Journals Forum

Moderated by  klhansen 

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