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#1191936 11/22/2016 2:45 PM
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 173
T
Shop Shark
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T Offline
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 173
Good morning. I have some questions about radiator options. 1952 Chevy with a 235. The radiator was pulled out of the truck and laying in the bed when we bought the truck. I took it down to a local shop and they quoted around $350 to put a new core in. I've seen posts that say just to buy an new aluminum one off ebay etc for half the cost.

We plan on keeping the engine, assuming it's good (don't know that yet). We are not doing a restoration. Just would like to get it up and driving again. We live in the desert and it gets extremely hot in the summer. Any summer driving would be early morning or after the sun goes down in the evening.

What are the pros/cons of getting the old one rebuilt? Pros/cons of the new aluminum ones? Also, I have seen two, three, four row ones for sale. An explanation of when each is sufficient would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!


Ron and Ryan Hill
1952 Chevy 3100
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
Others will disagree, but,a $200 3 row aluminum radiator will keep your truck nice and cool in the desert. They are an exact match mounting wise for your old radiator. Set the old one aside and when time/money is available have it re-cored and wrap it up and put it away. You will have it if/when you decide to "restore" the truck.
drive


Martin
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5
Renaissance Man
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I bought an aluminum radiator on Ebay for $200 delivered, and the tank has the same shape as the original radiator.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Dec 2008
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'Bolter
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Exact amount of money "re-cored original radiator" adds to the truck's value: $0.00.

Joined: Jul 2010
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Shop Shark
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Ron and Ryan, is the old radiator leaking? A new core would be nice, but might not be necessary if the core isn't leaking. A quick test is to plug the upper and lower radiator hose fittings, fill the radiator with water and check for leaks. I use Oatey pressure test plugs available in the plumbing department of Home Depot or Lowes. It won't be a pressure test, but these systems aren't under a lot of pressure anyway.

If it doesn't leak, I'd rinse it out well with a garden hose inside an out and try using it.

I live in Gilbert, too. I run a 160 degree thermostat instead of the stock 180 due to our hot summers. I keep it in year round because I don't use the heater very often. Sometimes you'll see the 160 degree thermostats referred to as 'desert thermostats'.

If your core doesn't leak but your upper or lower tanks either leak or have dents but are salvageable, send me a PM and I can offer some advice about how to fix them on your own...or you can stop by and I can show you.

Matt

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Originally Posted by Justhorsenround
Others will disagree, but,a $200 3 row aluminum radiator will keep your truck nice and cool in the desert. They are an exact match mounting wise for your old radiator. Set the old one aside and when time/money is available have it re-cored and wrap it up and put it away. You will have it if/when you decide to "restore" the truck.
drive

Thank you!

Originally Posted by 52Carl
I bought an aluminum radiator on Ebay for $200 delivered, and the tank has the same shape as the original radiator.

I'll look into that

Originally Posted by panic
Exact amount of money "re-cored original radiator" adds to the truck's value: $0.00.

Point taken

Originally Posted by Maybellene
Ron and Ryan, is the old radiator leaking? A new core would be nice, but might not be necessary if the core isn't leaking. A quick test is to plug the upper and lower radiator hose fittings, fill the radiator with water and check for leaks. I use Oatey pressure test plugs available in the plumbing department of Home Depot or Lowes. It won't be a pressure test, but these systems aren't under a lot of pressure anyway.

If it doesn't leak, I'd rinse it out well with a garden hose inside an out and try using it.

I live in Gilbert, too. I run a 160 degree thermostat instead of the stock 180 due to our hot summers. I keep it in year round because I don't use the heater very often. Sometimes you'll see the 160 degree thermostats referred to as 'desert thermostats'.

If your core doesn't leak but your upper or lower tanks either leak or have dents but are salvageable, send me a PM and I can offer some advice about how to fix them on your own...or you can stop by and I can show you.

Matt

We took it over to a place on Country Club and he said he could tell be looking at it that it was leaking. The fact that it had been pulled from the truck would seem to enforce that. I'll go ahead and fill it up anyway to see. Thanks for the info on the thermostat too!

Last edited by The Hill Boys; 11/24/2016 1:04 PM.

Ron and Ryan Hill
1952 Chevy 3100
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 116
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 116
I've got a leak in the upper part of my radiator and I'm leaning toward a new aluminum one. I had mine fixed before, I'm thinking the peace of mind would be worth the $200 investment, always wondering if having it cleaned out will cause more leaks than are there now. My biggest worry is the fit, not much clearance between fan and radiator on my 55.2 GMC.


1955 Second Series GMC
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Follow in the DITY

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