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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 173 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 173 | Good morning. I have some questions about radiator options. 1952 Chevy with a 235. The radiator was pulled out of the truck and laying in the bed when we bought the truck. I took it down to a local shop and they quoted around $350 to put a new core in. I've seen posts that say just to buy an new aluminum one off ebay etc for half the cost.
We plan on keeping the engine, assuming it's good (don't know that yet). We are not doing a restoration. Just would like to get it up and driving again. We live in the desert and it gets extremely hot in the summer. Any summer driving would be early morning or after the sun goes down in the evening.
What are the pros/cons of getting the old one rebuilt? Pros/cons of the new aluminum ones? Also, I have seen two, three, four row ones for sale. An explanation of when each is sufficient would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance! Ron and Ryan Hill 1952 Chevy 3100 | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,440 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,440 | Others will disagree, but,a $200 3 row aluminum radiator will keep your truck nice and cool in the desert. They are an exact match mounting wise for your old radiator. Set the old one aside and when time/money is available have it re-cored and wrap it up and put it away. You will have it if/when you decide to "restore" the truck. 
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,271 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,271 | I bought an aluminum radiator on Ebay for $200 delivered, and the tank has the same shape as the original radiator.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 1,922 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 1,922 | Exact amount of money "re-cored original radiator" adds to the truck's value: $0.00. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 592 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 592 | Ron and Ryan, is the old radiator leaking? A new core would be nice, but might not be necessary if the core isn't leaking. A quick test is to plug the upper and lower radiator hose fittings, fill the radiator with water and check for leaks. I use Oatey pressure test plugs available in the plumbing department of Home Depot or Lowes. It won't be a pressure test, but these systems aren't under a lot of pressure anyway.
If it doesn't leak, I'd rinse it out well with a garden hose inside an out and try using it.
I live in Gilbert, too. I run a 160 degree thermostat instead of the stock 180 due to our hot summers. I keep it in year round because I don't use the heater very often. Sometimes you'll see the 160 degree thermostats referred to as 'desert thermostats'.
If your core doesn't leak but your upper or lower tanks either leak or have dents but are salvageable, send me a PM and I can offer some advice about how to fix them on your own...or you can stop by and I can show you.
Matt | | | | | Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 173 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 173 | Others will disagree, but,a $200 3 row aluminum radiator will keep your truck nice and cool in the desert. They are an exact match mounting wise for your old radiator. Set the old one aside and when time/money is available have it re-cored and wrap it up and put it away. You will have it if/when you decide to "restore" the truck.  Thank you! I bought an aluminum radiator on Ebay for $200 delivered, and the tank has the same shape as the original radiator. I'll look into that Exact amount of money "re-cored original radiator" adds to the truck's value: $0.00. Point taken Ron and Ryan, is the old radiator leaking? A new core would be nice, but might not be necessary if the core isn't leaking. A quick test is to plug the upper and lower radiator hose fittings, fill the radiator with water and check for leaks. I use Oatey pressure test plugs available in the plumbing department of Home Depot or Lowes. It won't be a pressure test, but these systems aren't under a lot of pressure anyway.
If it doesn't leak, I'd rinse it out well with a garden hose inside an out and try using it.
I live in Gilbert, too. I run a 160 degree thermostat instead of the stock 180 due to our hot summers. I keep it in year round because I don't use the heater very often. Sometimes you'll see the 160 degree thermostats referred to as 'desert thermostats'.
If your core doesn't leak but your upper or lower tanks either leak or have dents but are salvageable, send me a PM and I can offer some advice about how to fix them on your own...or you can stop by and I can show you.
Matt We took it over to a place on Country Club and he said he could tell be looking at it that it was leaking. The fact that it had been pulled from the truck would seem to enforce that. I'll go ahead and fill it up anyway to see. Thanks for the info on the thermostat too!
Last edited by The Hill Boys; 11/24/2016 1:04 PM.
Ron and Ryan Hill 1952 Chevy 3100 | | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 116 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 116 | I've got a leak in the upper part of my radiator and I'm leaning toward a new aluminum one. I had mine fixed before, I'm thinking the peace of mind would be worth the $200 investment, always wondering if having it cleaned out will cause more leaks than are there now. My biggest worry is the fit, not much clearance between fan and radiator on my 55.2 GMC. 1955 Second Series GMC"Done - A 50 Year Journey"Follow in the DITY-- No one said it was going to be easy
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