The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline clutch fork help please

I'm gathering parts to put an MY6 transmission into a 68 gmc. I bought the truck with no engine and most of the clutch linkage parts were missing. The MY6 came with a bell housing and this clutch fork:[IMG]http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn214/jfnar/68%20GMC/IMG_01501_zps1wppkxwq.jpg[/IMG]
It's a stamped part that is curved and has a cup on the end. The clutch fork that's in the truck is a cast iron, straight part with holes on the end. [IMG]http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn214/jfnar/68%20GMC/IMG_00401_zpsvxplmy65.jpg[/IMG] I'm not sure how the linkage hooks up; do I need to drill a hole in the end of the stamped fork or should I use the cast iron fork that's in the truck. Any advice will be appreciated.

Thanks.
Jeff

Hy jfnar, I would use your original clutch fork in your "new" bell housing, that would simplify your linkage, hope that helps.

The cast iron fork takes a rod with threads and a nut that has a chisel point on it with a lock nut on it so it will not rotate, the rod extends through the fork to keep it from falling out, obviously tension must be kept tight.


ED

Thanks for the info. Just wanted to be sure before I get too far along.

I had sort of the same problem when I replaced the clutch in my '55 pickup with Pontiac engine.. Does your linkage pull or push on the fork? If it pushes, then the stamped fork should work. If it pulls, then the cast straight fork can work. I used the cast one and modified it to work with a tapered lug nut on the rod. To use the stamped fork would have meant drilling a hole in the cup which would have weakened it too much. Also the cast fork is straight, and the stamped one is offset, you may need to change the release bearing from long to short or vice versa.....If you look thru the pics in the link below there is a picture of the clutch actuation rod I made up using a hiem joint and a tapered lug nut