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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,781 Posts1,039,297 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 43 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 43 | Looking for some help on how the cardboard should fit. Working on a total rebuild. Have the dash, glove box door, brackets and cardboard. I cannot seem to figure our how the cardboard fits with respect to the hinges. If it get the cardboard in, there is no room for the hinges. Does anyone have pictures of how theirs is installed with views from the front with the glove box door open and from the back-bottom side to see what that looks like from thier? Any help would be appreciated. | | | | Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 1,321 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 1,321 | Photo of Glove Box Liner The Cut-out at the top goes around the Lock. The slits in the botom go around the hinges. The screws go through the screw holes into the dash frame. If your liner does not look like this- you have the wrong one. Check Jim Carter for the correct box. Harold
Harold Is a restoration ever finished? | | | | Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 43 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 43 | I have tried to install as you mention but I am still having an issue. I will get pictures of what it looks like when I try to get it to fit. | | | | Joined: Jan 2015 Posts: 910 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2015 Posts: 910 | On my 1946 2 ton the repo glove box needed to have pressure applied to move the cardboard close enough for the screws to catch. I could not reach behind and push while trying to get the screws to start.
Also the original G box used machine screws and the repo used sheet metal screws.
Anyway my solution was that I used longer screws. Jeffrey | | | | Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 1,321 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 1,321 | When I installed my glove box, I had to "encourage the screws to line up. On the side screws, I had to reinforce the cardboard and punch new holes in the correct location. As to the bottom screws, I cut a 2" X 4" X 8" piece of wood to fill the space between the metal bracket and the cardboard box bottom. I then used longer machine screws to attach it all together. So much for REPO parts "made from original patterns" Harold
Last edited by Harold46; 11/19/2016 2:20 AM.
Harold Is a restoration ever finished? | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 107 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 107 | I'll be embarking on this adventure in the near future. My original glovebox just gave up this past weekend about halfway through my trip into town. It was suddenly at my passenger's feet, luckily it landed face up so all the contents stayed inside. Have one on order, and will report back when I have a chance to work on it. Its amazing that the original paper held up as long as it did, and it probably would still be there if I didn't keep all the stuff in there that it currently has...I'll be attempting to downsize or relocate the contents as well. Here is hoping I can get the repo to work with the original screws, didn't order the screw kit because there is nothing wrong with the installed screws.... | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 107 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 107 | Finally had a chance to work on the glove box. The repo that I ordered came with some metal inserts that had to be stuck through the cardboard from the exterior and then clamped into place by bending 4 tabs on each insert. There where 4 of these needed in my case, the two on the top, and the two on the sides. The bottom holes on my truck had captive nuts for the screws on the little raised bracket that is on the bottom of the dash in the glove box opening.
Although the instructions state you can use original screws, I was unable to get the original screws to start in the metal inserts. After some trial, my solution was to use a 8-32 tap to start some threads in the inserts. I didn't really tap them completely, just enough so that I could start the screws. With this modification I could easily start the screws.
The repo box fit the dash pretty well in my case. It did need a little stretching and wiggling to get it in place, but it wasn't really that bad. I was able to easily get it in place close enough to start the two screws in the bottom. Once those were in and still loose, I was able to push it up and towards the dash from behind while guiding the edges through the open box door. The cardboard goes on the outside of the metal portion of the dash on the sides and the top of the box opening. With the screws in the bottom, it helped to rotate the cardboard into place. On top there was some metal from below the windshield that the cardboard had to go under, yet still go above the metal around the door opening. It took a little prodding to get it to snake in through that area. Once in position I was able to start the side screws and then the top screws. After they were all started, I tightened them.
Comparing the repo to the original box, it was actually pretty similar. The main difference was that the original seemed the be lined with cloth instead of the felt, but it's possible that the cloth I'm looking at was just the bottom of the original felt. Otherwise, it was pretty similar, with maybe some slight differences in the size and shape of the notches. The biggest difference was the metal inserts. The part in contact with the cardboard is the same, but instead of just a bit of a keyhole for a sheetmetal screw, they have about an 1/8th inch tall tube with the 8-32 threads in them for a much easier and sturdy screw connection.
I didn't remember to take pictures until I was finished, they are in my signature gallery. | | |
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