| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
9 members (GRNHydra, 1955 1 Series, NAPCOStormTrpr, joe apple, Charles in CA, klhansen, DBJ71SuperCustom, dt235sd, 1 invisible),
101
guests, and
2
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,079 Posts1,056,286 Members48,441 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 946 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 946 | I ordered a couple doors coated with black EDP primer. I was wondering if I can spray 2-Part Urethane Primer over the EDP coating? I have raw steel parts that I am treating with 2-part etch primer and 2-part urethane primer and want to stick with the same primer under the paint. Any help would be appreciated.
Also, is epoxy primer better than applying 2-part etch primer then 2-part urethane primer? I heard the epoxy primer is hard to sand and that is why I went with the etch/urethane system.
Thanks, Michael | | | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 23 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 23 | Either route will be fine...Epoxy primer etches but also has some build to it (so it can be blocked)Also it is not porous where it will absorb moisture
Etching primer has no build to it but etches to bare metal very well. It IS porous.
They both can be followed up with a 2k primer.
With bare metal I prefer to etch, then epoxy then 2k primer. This will yield very good adhesion and plenty of build for prep.
¿ÐíÐ Ï Hí‡ †hŇ?
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 946 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 946 | Ven,
Thanks for the info. I'm glad to know I'm not about to make a big mistake by spraying 2-part primer over the EDP! Where in Florida are you? Not too many of use down here.
Michael | | | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 23 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 23 |
¿ÐíÐ Ï Hí‡ †hŇ?
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 425 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 425 | make sure you scuff that edp coating really well, around the edges especially. Epoxy primer works well, but is a pain in the butt to sand, but if you went over it with a high build primer like ven said, it will be nice. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 1,067 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 1,067 | Just curious, why do you want to reprime the EDP primed surfaces on brand new panels? Unless they got some dings on them in shipping, they should be just about perfect and ready for paint. The EDP makes a fine primer as it is for paint adhesion.
52 GMC 3/4 ton pickup
68 Big Block Vette
68 455 Firebird
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 946 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 946 | I knew that question would come up. These things are made in Tiawan and I want to make absolutely sure they are straight. I want this to be perfect.
And wouldn't be better to apply final paint to the same type of primer? Not sure if I am being paranoid but maybe the chemical composition of the EDP is different than the 2-part urethane and it may cause problems with the paint later?
Michael | | | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 23 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 23 | I would definitly sand them and throw some 2K at them. Ive seen adhesion problems as well as wrinkling problems with lesser epoxy primers. Run over them with 320 prime with 2K scuff with 400 and paint for best results. Also its better to have a bad chemical reaction with primer than with your base/clear
¿ÐíÐ Ï Hí‡ †hŇ?
| | |
|
|
| |
