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| | | Forums66 Topics128,128 Posts1,056,668 Members48,450 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 62 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 62 | I fixed the oil dripping from the fitting on my oil pressure gauge. It’s no longer dripping — now oil is pouring out from under the dashboard. At this point, I’m just not up to taking the dashboard apart again. I just want to drive it to where I store it for the winter and put it away for the season. I’ll deal with fixing it next year.
So I think that I need to plug this at the engine block. I did some searches but couldn’t find threads on this topic. Has anyone done this? Any suggestions on how to go about it? I’m guessing that I need some sort of pipe thread plug. Anyone know what size? Oh yeah, the truck is a ’53 3100, but the engine is from ’54 235.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | | | | | | Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 62 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 62 | | | | | | Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 62 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 62 | Well, I’ve found out some more about this since yesterday — stuff you old timers probably already knew, but I’m still learning. Turns out that it’s a 1/8” compression fitting which is quite different from pipe fittings both in size and threading — so my original idea is not going to work.
When I went to the hardware store, they told me that nobody makes a way to plug a 1/8” compression fitting opening. They had a couple of suggestions — a ball bearing to plug the tip of the compression fitting but I’d be afraid that it would still leak or that I couldn’t get the ball bearing back out when I try to fix it later.
They also suggested a compression to pipe coupler which I would connect to the engine block using a short piece of 1/8” tubing. But that weight shaking around at the end of the tubing just sounded to me like a problem waiting to happen — if that tubing ever fractured, I’d have a real mess on my hands.
So now I’m thinking of rigging up something on my own. Taking an inch and a half or two of 1/8” copper tubing, plugging about half of it with a piece of copper wire and solder (the kind they use for pipes) and then inserting that into the engine block with a compression fitting and ferrule.
Any thoughts on this idea? | | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 | Tcledermans idea should work if your plugging the block 1/8 pipe plug | | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 592 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 592 | The block is threaded 1/8" NPT. You can remove the entire fitting from the block and insert a plug.
You are correct that the fitting itself uses what can be hard-to-find parts to connect the oil tube, but the block to fitting threads are standard 1/8"NPT.
If you are using a remote oil filter, you can simply remove the pressure gauge fitting and run the filter directly to the block. The filter uses 1/8"NPT threads. You might need to screw a 1/8"NPT nipple into the block, then add a 1/8"NPT female coupler to screw the filter line into.
Matt | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,837 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,837 | Any auto parts store, even an imitation one like Auto Zone, will have a replacement oil line kit with all the fittings you need to replace the line from the block to the gauge- - - -not do a patch job on a 65 year old system. New line, new compression fittings, and drive on!
Get the good-quality kit with a copper line, not the cheap plastic one. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 62 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 62 | Thanks for all of the advice. Now I get it — the compression fitting threads into a pipe-thread hole. I hadn’t crawled under the truck to take a look yet. Waiting until Saturday for that.
I bought the 1/8” NPT plug while I was at the hardware store just-in-case (only a couple of bucks) so I should be ready to go.
One more question . . . is Teflon tape good enough to put on the threads or do I have to use pipe dope?
I just want to get the truck put away for now so I’ll do the full repair next spring (line, fittings, gauge, etc).
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 Crusing in the Passing Lane | | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 | Just be very careful to never get shreds of tape in the fluid system, teflon ground up with a brush helps with that, looks just like pipe dope, small can lasts years, thin with acetone when gets too dry.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,837 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,837 | Most brass pipe fittings don't need sealer at all, especially if they're going into a cast iron or steel female thread. A small dab of brush-on Permatex sealer works better than any tape or pipe dope I've ever found if a thread seal is necessary. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 62 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 62 | I think that I want to pull the instrument cluster before I put the truck away for the winter. That way I can work on repairing the cluster over the winter and have it ready to reinstall in the spring.
I guess that means that I’m going to have to plug the temperature sensor whole, too. Does anyone know what size that would be? 1/2" NPT seems to be a pretty common size for this opening, but I just want to be sure.
Also, I see that they sell just the oil pressure gauge. How hard is this to replace in the instrument cluster? Does it require any special tools or drilling out rivets? Any advice from your past experiences? I don’t want to make a bigger mess than I already have.
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | Pipe plugs: Take the sender to the store and match the threads...or measure and compare to web chart.
Gauges: They come off the cluster easily. No special tools or drill out. Buy a gauge, buy the tubing and plumb.
You can buy new "faces" for your gauges.
Gauge work is much easier from the front instead of crawling if you can remove ash trays, radios, speaker panels, delete plates, glove box, etc. on some trucks, Check that out.
DADS50 has a lot of advice on all this.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | |
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