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| | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 457 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 457 | Hi folks. My baby is leaking, and I have a new pump. How do I do it? Looks like I need to remove hood and radiator to gain access. Has somebody done this and can give me some help?
Many thanks, Ken
Last edited by 40casey; 10/30/2016 2:56 AM.
1940 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup "KC"
A day without sunshine is like, well, ..... dark!
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 583 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 583 | On my 39 I loosened the generator and removed the fan belt. Removed the 4 bolts from the fan. Drained the radiator. Removed the water pump hose. Removed the water pump. Removed the old gasket. Reinstalled in reverse. It was a tight fit getting the 4 bolts out to remove the fan to be sure, but it was doable. Be careful with the radiator. Did not remove the hood or the radiator.
Rick
Last edited by rickmg; 10/30/2016 3:43 AM.
1939 Chevrolet Stake Truck
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 457 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 457 | Thanks, Rick. On mine, the belt is wider than the space between the blades and the radiator! Can't imagine how they got it together in the first place!. Anybody else have experience with this?
1940 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup "KC"
A day without sunshine is like, well, ..... dark!
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | It is close. 4 skinned knucles later. You might be able to loosen the core support rods & move the rad. forward at the top a little.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 843 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 843 | Casey,
Does your '40 shop manual tell how to do this?
If it were mine I would remove the fan blade and leave the pulley and belt in place then move the water pump forward to see if the impeller clears the block. If the impeller does clear, the pump can be removed with the pulley and belt still in place. On my '36 pickup that technique works.
Remember that it's an inanimate object and you're smarter than it is.
Ray
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | If it is a 1940 motor the impeller does not go into the block. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 843 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 843 | "If it is a 1940 motor the impeller does not go into the block."
That makes it easy. If there is enough space in front of the fan to remove the bolts simply leave the belt and pulley in place and slide the pump off the front of the engine. Or simpler yet, leave the fan bolted on and move any obstacles like the generator.
Am I missing something?
Ray
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 457 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 457 | Thanks everybody for the great info. I think I see how this will work now. I will also put a sheet of poster board in front of the fan to minimize damage to the radiator and minimize blood loss! Ken
1940 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup "KC"
A day without sunshine is like, well, ..... dark!
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