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| | | Forums66 Topics128,094 Posts1,056,157 Members48,436 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jul 2015 Posts: 54 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2015 Posts: 54 | I am trying to get a 46 Chev 1/2 ton to be a rolling truck. One rear wheel is seized, any good ideas to free it up or get the drum off the truck. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Tell us what you have done/adjusted, Elton
Have you loosened up the wheel cylinder adjustors? | | | | | Joined: Jan 2015 Posts: 914 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2015 Posts: 914 | When the brake adjusters are frozen, some people here have disconnected the brake line to the wheel cylinder and unbolt the WC from the backing plate. This lets the brake shoes move away from the drum.
What I did on my 1945 1/2 ton rolling chassis to get the drums off was to spray brake clean into the drum from the brake adjusting openings on the backing plate.
Used it as a lubricant. I then gently used screw drivers for a little leverage.
The drum would move a hair I would spray more B clean in the adjuster openings and along the area where the drum meets the backing plate.
Move it a hair, spray, move a hair spray. As the ends of the brake shoes were exposed where there was no brake lining I would hit them to try and force the pistons in the wheel cylinders to retract. Spray some more, pry gentle, repeat until done.
As soon as the edge of the brake linings facing the backing plate were exposed I then sprayed B clean on to the linings to better lubricate them so the drum would slide off of the shoes.
Turns out the pistons in my wheel cylinders were frozen so they never move back into the WC bore.
But I took my time and use care so the drums were not harmed. Jeffrey | | | | | Joined: Jul 2015 Posts: 54 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2015 Posts: 54 | The rubber portion of the brake line rotted off probably 15 years ago, so I suspect the wheel cylinder is seized and the brake shoes are rusted to the drum. Would like to save the drum and get it rolling so I can get it on my trailer. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | You can chip and blast and spray and lever on the shoes, just don't damage backing plate or drums. Everything inside is replaceable cheaply. Taking off/loosening WC is a good tip. As Tim says, get some shoe showing so as to knock it inward or break lining off. Hard to damage drums. Bang hard all around drums with rubber or dead blow hammer. Over and over and over. Does not matter what you spay in there if it works. (Nothing that swells lining, of course)
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | | | | Joined: Jun 2016 Posts: 236 DLBrooks | | DLBrooks Joined: Jun 2016 Posts: 236 | If you are not going to reuse the brake drum, use an air or electric cut off wheel and slice thru or nearly thru the brake drum on top from inside to outside. Then use a thick chisle to crack/split the drum. Had to do this on an s10 that had set too long. | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 1,904 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2001 Posts: 1,904 | You might try heating the drum around the circumference with a propane torch. That worked for me once. 1948 3/4-Ton 5-Window Flatbed Chevrolet 34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 Crusing in the Passing Lane | | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 | One can get dollys to put under the wheel(s) to load, or grease or wet the ramp.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2015 Posts: 54 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2015 Posts: 54 | I unbolted the brake wheel cylinder and tapped on the drum, it came off quite easy. I wish I had known this on another truck I did, I really fought with that one. Thanks for the replies. | | |
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